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pigsteak wrote:my point: people don't want to put in the gym (basement) time to see small gains in skill sets.

I can think of one loser that does EXACTLY that.

You are pot-stirring piglet. But it is good for you to say what others may be thinking.

pigsteak wrote: . . . . so we decide to go hide in the woods and plug gear instead of admitting we are being left behind.

There are likely many to whom your summary judgement may apply. There are many to whom it definitely does not. I also liked Dusti's comeback.

I started climbing in Sept 2005 at the age of 40+. On March 8, 2006 I did Attack of the Sand Shark 5.9- on my my own gear. My hardest send at that point was Dynabolt Gold. 5.10a sport. At the top of the Sandshark I found a pile of tat. The route was a sandy beach that totally sketched me out. Even this awful route immediately hooked on trad climbing.

After that my sport-to-trad ratio was probably 25:1. Right now it is 1:2. I am sure it will flipflop back and forth on a monthly/ seasonal / partner availability basis.

good example of three bad ass all-arounders who climb it all without drawing in imaginary boundaries...
http://climbingnarc.com/2012/10/threes- ... 12-season/

I climb up the stairs on a good day- sometimes I just clip into the rail and sometimes I get a really good #4 placement in the gap between the railing and the wall.

yeah, caribe, I wasnt so much pot stirring as perhaps trying to voice what i sense is a predominant sentiment at the Red.....

pigsteak wrote: My point: people don't want to put in the gym time to see small gains in skill sets so they pretend they found the holy grail and start trad climbing at very low levels.

Not sure if I am reading this right. But to me it reads like you think it would be a good idea to bang away for small gains in skill when there is a glaring lack of skill climbing cracks.

If a climber is completely lost on basic Trad climbing movements it is probably a good idea to invest some time trying to master those weaknesses. You will get a much better return on your time than dynoing jug to jug at the gym. Like Dustin and Andrew pointed out Trad and Sport climbing are just rock climbing.

I climb good routes. If said routes have no bolts, then I bring gear.

Redpoint:
sport 12d
trad 11c

Onsight:
sport 12a
trad 10d

There you go, JR. Takeaways from this inquiry? It's pretty typical for those that climb sport and trad in the RRG to post considerably bigger numbers on sport than on trad. "Some" suggest that you're just being lazy if you try to balance your skills by pushing on trad when you could be spending all of your time in the gym trying to go from 12.b sport to 12.b+ sport, even if you couldn't climb your way out of a paper bag on trad. I think I'd pick Andrew as my role model, not whoever the Pigster was talking about.

LK Day wrote:I think I'd pick Andrew as my role model

hahaha what an honor!! congratulations Andrew! your memorial plaque is in the mail, along with an official pair of magic underwear signed by Mitt Romney

haha. those piss stains are solid gold.