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Izzy wrote:Dustin: I guess I didn't realize there was any concentration of good sport climbing in Alabama and Georgia, so choc that up to my ignorance, but it seems like Lexington is a pretty central location in regards to the majority of good climbing east of the mississippi. Is there really enough climbing south of Tennessee to contradict that?

there is a ton of sport climbing within 50 minutes of Chattanooga and a good portion of it is within 20 minutes. Way more than you would guess, and you get to climb on it all winter.

Andrew wrote:

Izzy wrote:Dustin: I guess I didn't realize there was any concentration of good sport climbing in Alabama and Georgia, so choc that up to my ignorance, but it seems like Lexington is a pretty central location in regards to the majority of good climbing east of the mississippi. Is there really enough climbing south of Tennessee to contradict that?

there is a ton of sport climbing within 50 minutes of Chattanooga and a good portion of it is within 20 minutes. Way more than you would guess, and you get to climb on it all winter.

and sit in the AC all summer.....

is there any possible way to consolidate 5000 overheated comments into one cool observation?

Take some time and live out of your car...bum around for a year or two and just make your way across the country doing odd jobs to cover gas/food/ect

whatahutch wrote:Richmond,KY is not a bad little town, it is 45 minutes from the 'Lode and the rest of the PMRP, by beautiful country roads. It is a college town that is quiet in the summer, the rent is cheaper than Lex, there is a bit of culture (ethnic foods, small concerts, etc), and a decent night life. The climbing community is made up of a mix of old school tradsters that were putting up the classics in the Red back in the early '80s, gumbies learning the ropes at EKU, and plenty of others that fall in between that experience spectrum. If you are more into the social scene than maybe Lexington is the place for you. If you are more interested in climbing than I suggest Richmond. I lived in Richmond for nearly a decade and there were many times that I headed down to the southern region at 5:00 in the afternoon (in late spring, summer, and early fall) and got at least three pitches in by dusk, and made it back to Richmond in time to join other climbers for drinks at one of the night spots. It is also only about 45 minutes north of the Rockcastle bouldering area off of I-65 that is getting developed and growing.

I would also suggest there are a number of local businesses there that are currently, or soon to be, hiring in preparation for the students coming back in August. I have always been partial to beautiful Kentucky girls and there are plenty that are working on their degrees in that town. That's where I found my beautiful wife and subsiquently climbing. If it isn't being rented, I know where the is a cheap studio apartment with climber friendly landlords. They let me build a bouldering wall in the basement there.

Richmond is nice, but for a college town it may be disappointing. For instance, what kind of college town only has a small handful of bars (only 1 really worth going to), zero coffee shops, and a titty bar right in the middle of downtown? Answer: Richmond.

And if you like to ride a bike around, Richmond has got some of the most hostile motorists I've ever seen. I've had garbage thrown at me and been yelled at many times just for being on the road ("get the fuck outta my way!").... Almost got wrecked once because of a particularly malicious driver (some twisted shit, if you ask me). It's not an every day thing, but it happened enough for me...

That being said, I enjoyed my time there. I lived right in downtown, so walking a few places was feasible. The drive to the southern region is indeed beautiful and short. And we paid $500/month for an apartment that would have been twice that in Lexington. Dirt cheap! You can learn to love it, but some people don't. I don't regret my time there, it was fun!

Richmond is a "fixer-upper" town--if you're a community-minded individual. A few coffee shops, a community garden, and some god-damn crosswalk zones will make that town great. But for now, motorists own it. McDonald's has the upper hand in Richmond--not the small businesses.

But enough about all that--why even move here anyway? The Red gets boring quickly, the climbs are over-hyped, and the crowds are only going to get worse. You say you're into sport--if you're not a 5.12 or 5.13 climber, then you'll spend a lot of time waiting in line for so-so routes like the rest of us. Besides, if you move to this area then you're basically going to HAVE to climb at the Red. Other decent destinations are hours and hours away.

My advice again is to go learn some trad. Within a month, you'll be having more adventure than most of us ever do.

Salt Lake is a pretty nice place to be. In the last couple months I have climbed at American Fork, Maple, City of Rocks and Little Cottonwood. There are many crags within an hour and major destinations (Maple, City of Rocks, Joe's Valley, Triasic) within three hours. Within a days drive you can get to Ten Sleep, Rifle, Yosemite, the Tetons, etc. In winter, a four hour drive gets you to great stuff in St George or you can start back country skiing or ice climbing. Plus it's a big enough city to have lots of good restaurants, good music events and jobs.

Yeah, one of my concerns is being too far south and dealing with too much heat in the summer, as well as being too far north and having to deal with nasty winters. Lexington/Richmond fall into the roughly 37th or 38th parallel ( I think), which seem to me to contain the best weather in North America ( IMO). Elevation also plays a big part though obviously.

As far as climbing harder routes to avoid the crowds in the red, the idea is that climbing more will make me a better climber. Besides, isn't it pretty common that the moderates get crowded in most sport climbing destinations?

It would be nice to live out of my car and sample the climbing everywhere, but at 31 yrs. old, with a dwindling bank account and a 160 lb. dog, its not a very realistic option.

Whatahutch- thanks for the cultural info regarding Richmond, that does make a difference. Also thanks for your comments about my service, they are appreciated.

Allah- Sorry for my ignorance, but what exactly do you mean by "rigging jobs"? I job searched Vegas this morning for positions in industries I have experience with, and the results were pretty dismal.

Again, thanks everyone for the input so far, it has been very helpful.

pawilkes wrote:Salt Lake is a pretty nice place to be. In the last couple months I have climbed at American Fork, Maple, City of Rocks and Little Cottonwood. There are many crags within an hour and major destinations (Maple, City of Rocks, Joe's Valley, Triasic) within three hours. Within a days drive you can get to Ten Sleep, Rifle, Yosemite, the Tetons, etc. In winter, a four hour drive gets you to great stuff in St George or you can start back country skiing or ice climbing. Plus it's a big enough city to have lots of good restaurants, good music events and jobs.

Phil, does the Mormon influence become bothersome? I mean like the 3% beer and stuff like that. I hear it's even tough to get a job there if you're not in the club.

toad857 wrote:Richmond is nice, but for a college town it may be disappointing. For instance, what kind of college town only has a small handful of bars (only 1 really worth going to), zero coffee shops, and a titty bar right in the middle of downtown? Answer: Richmond.

And if you like to ride a bike around, Richmond has got some of the most hostile motorists I've ever seen. I've had garbage thrown at me and been yelled at many times just for being on the road ("get the fuck outta my way!").... Almost got wrecked once because of a particularly malicious driver (some twisted shit, if you ask me). It's not an every day thing, but it happened enough for me...

That being said, I enjoyed my time there. I lived right in downtown, so walking a few places was feasible. The drive to the southern region is indeed beautiful and short. And we paid $500/month for an apartment that would have been twice that in Lexington. Dirt cheap! You can learn to love it, but some people don't. I don't regret my time there, it was fun!

If your looking for somewhere local to the Red, I couldnt think of a better place than Berea or Richmond(Richmond is wet,Berea is not). I come from the real southeast of Ky and also have a military background there for I dont fit the profile of your stereotypical "climber" but find madison co in general to be a great balance offering night life, jobs, plenty of outdoor recreation within minutes, down to earth people, and close to the Red. Not to mention a central location of other climbing that few know about. As far as vigilante motorist's, Im probably guilty. I still cant figure out why the fella on a road bike,knowing that he has traffic backed up 6 deep, cant pull off for a minute.

SCIN wrote:

pawilkes wrote:Salt Lake is a pretty nice place to be. In the last couple months I have climbed at American Fork, Maple, City of Rocks and Little Cottonwood. There are many crags within an hour and major destinations (Maple, City of Rocks, Joe's Valley, Triasic) within three hours. Within a days drive you can get to Ten Sleep, Rifle, Yosemite, the Tetons, etc. In winter, a four hour drive gets you to great stuff in St George or you can start back country skiing or ice climbing. Plus it's a big enough city to have lots of good restaurants, good music events and jobs.

Phil, does the Mormon influence become bothersome? I mean like the 3% beer and stuff like that. I hear it's even tough to get a job there if you're not in the club.

Having lived in SLC the past 8 years I hope that was a joke... Because everyone knows Mormons have outlawed beer and fun and also you arent even allowed in the state unless a mormon vouches for you!