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Re: Is it a send?
Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 2:41 pm
by gneiss
I'll also stand by my assertion that all of toyboy's sends are invalid... whether he clipped the draws or not!!
Re: Is it a send?
Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 2:44 pm
by pigsteak
I was belaying dude a few summers back, and as he was going for the anchors his foot slipped and he took the whipper. He frantically swiped his hand trying to slap the chains. He missed, but came down and proudly announced he had sent because he "could" have done the moves. And yes, he ticked it off to get this "points"......sad, but true.
Re: Is it a send?
Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 2:46 pm
by climb2core
What makes you think that I am not interested in hearing what people have to say? Just because I have an opinion and am willing to debate it doesn't mean that I am not open to discussion. Climbing is personal, but there should be some standards in terminology. In football when you get a touchdown everyone knows that you mean the ball crossed the plane of the goal line. I was curious to see what the consensus was in the climbing community for clipping 1 draw at the chains. I have always taken the send, but was curious what others thought (and why) when my buddy said he didn't think he sent.
So far, your viewpoint seems in the minority and your logic shoddy IMO. After watching the worlds best clip one biner and take the send where technicalities DO MATTER, I would be inclined to think that should be good enough for me.
But you are right, to each there own. I wish I climbed with you.... I would bring a full rack of draws to the chains and LMAO watching you clip all 20 of them
Re: Is it a send?
Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 2:48 pm
by climb2core
pigsteak wrote:I was belaying dude a few summers back, and as he was going for the anchors his foot slipped and he took the whipper. He frantically swiped his hand trying to slap the chains. He missed, but came down and proudly announced he had sent because he "could" have done the moves. And yes, he ticked it off to get this "points"......sad, but true.
I always thought Michelle climbed with and belayed Ray...
Re: Is it a send?
Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 2:49 pm
by pigsteak
are you suggesting we just put one bolt at the chains now C2C? should be fine.
Re: Is it a send?
Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 2:51 pm
by climb2core
pigsteak wrote:are you suggesting we just put one bolt at the chains now C2C? should be fine.
Oh piggy..... find some newbies for your antics. I think we should just do away with the anchors all together... and just have you slap the rock where they would be and then take the victory whip.
Ok... so my thoughts are: I like to live and don't like to put all my eggs in one basket. So, two separate anchor systems are better than one. But there are climbs that have two anchors with one connecting chain and one biner for lowering at the Red. Far From God comes to mind and I know there are many more.
But really you know this and I am just wasting my time typing it out for you... damn you!
Re: Is it a send?
Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 2:54 pm
by dustonian
Man that sure would save me a lot of time and money. 2-bolt anchors are a pain in the ass and expensive.
P.S. this discussion is retarded.
Re: Is it a send?
Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 2:55 pm
by gneiss
pigsteak wrote:are you suggesting we just put one bolt at the chains now C2C? should be fine.
honestly i think piggie has a good point here. while clipping 1 draw to lower when all the draws below it might not be too dangerous it certainly has serious consequences if the masses of new climbers start viewing this as an anchor.
also, victory whips are just whips if you don't have to unclip the anchorS before you take em.
Re: Is it a send?
Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 3:04 pm
by climb2core
gneiss wrote:also, victory whips are just whips if you don't have to unclip the anchorS before you take em.
According to who? Seems like you espouse your opinion as the truth.
And Dustin, for gods sake if it is boring for you... don't read it. Go study or climb or whatever... lol.
Re: Is it a send?
Posted: Wed Oct 12, 2011 3:16 pm
by gneiss
it's a message board on which my (and everyone elses) opinion was asked about clipping anchors. i figured that victory whips were a pretty related tangent to get into.
and no, I'm not saying any of this is fact just my opinion. i happen to think it's a pretty well reasoned opinion but you can and should take it for what it is worth. I've just always thought it was a pretty straight forward thing. climb to the top, clip the anchors. if it doesn't happen like that then try again.