Bolting question

[the lurkist]

I am not sure. I have only used Epcon A5.

[pigsteak]

I am using Hilti 500-RE

[the lurkist]

So I just saw Heacocis's bolt. Wow. That is a better design.
So, to Kip or Jeff, what is the consensus for the community standard bolt? I think we should arrive at a standard for glue ins just like we have for expansion bolts. You guys have done the most glue ins (Duston, too) and my apologies to anyone else who is using them. What's it going to be?
I personally think the Titt bolt, and now the Wave bolt (heacocis bolt) look like the best ones. I know the Titt bolt survived the pull tests at greater strength than any other tested. I assume the Wave bolt would do the same (as it is a variation on the Titt bolt). I haven't seen the pull test numbers on the Wave bolt yet.

[dustonian]

I use Titt bolts (6mm twist; 1/2" hole) but will probably use Isaac's bolt when I run out. I like Jim Titt's bolts a lot though, & he sent me a bunch for free once to get me hooked (smart man). But once our "guy" in the US runs out, they are going to be hard to come by...I'm down to about 65 now.

Basically use anything but the Petzl or Fixe glue-ins, which are welded and hella gay. Not to mention way overpriced. I use Hilti 500SD if it's above 50F outside, or RE150 if it's cold. The 150 stuff is actually way nicer to work with and looks better (sand colored), but it sets up way too fast in warm weather to be useable. I've started covering my RE500 with sand since I hate that red shit so much.

Still, when it comes down to it on steep routes near my limit, I go with 5-piece Powers bolts--it's too risky to use glue-ins if you're not 100% certain you're putting the bolts in the right place. Plus, to be honest, glue-ins are a big pain in the ass and require an extra half-day of work...not to mention your hands typically get all jacked up and stained black, which is less than ideal when I have to touch patients. I've found latex exam gloves to be the best for the dirty deed!

[Jeff]

Titt 6mm and 8mm with Hilti RE 500.
Saw the wave bolts the other day and they look sweet.
Without saying too much, once overseas titts are gone, they should be anything but hard to get.
It looks like there might be competition for market share soon.

[Buster]

I have done it. Anchors on Convicted, on Loosen up, Fuzzy... Rick Weber pull tested these and they failed not as high as the Titt bolts, but I believe they failed much higher that Rawl 5 piece. What I did was buy a long piece of SS all thread ( 6 foot) and cut it to 6 in pieces and beveled the ends. Much cheaper. Glue and nozzles are fixed cost but other wise much cheaper and for climbing applications over kill in strength.
Lock tight thread locker stops any nut looseing.
This, to me, has always been the most cost efficient solution for SS glue ins in the red. There is a method to reuse the existing holes, too.

The glue-ins at the anchor on Fuzzy as well as Tissue Tiger and Nicoderm are 7/16 inch stainless all thread glued in with Ramset Redhead's glue-in. As well as placing those, I put one in on a boulder beneath Reliquary. I did my own crude pull test on that one for several years afterwards. Minimum Creep is in fact named after one of the attributes of glue-ins. The one issue with this set up is that standard Metolius hangers had to be milled out to accept the 7/16 all thread stud. It's not really such a big deal, just a minor pain in the ass. I used red locktite to secure the nuts holding the hangers in place. Good luck getting those off without a torch! heh.

[Andrew]

wave bolt cost?

[Redpoint]

I just thought of this, you know how you aren't supposed to glue hangers to the rock when using mechanical bolts because it masks the condition of the bolt(as in if the bolt came loose after a bunch of falls but the hanger is glued to the rock you couldn't tell that the bolt was loose), well considering you are going to glue the rod in the hole, you might as well glue the hanger to the rock to prevent spinners.

If you glued the rod and the hanger at the same time it could mask how well the rod is glued, and so I would glue the rod one day, check it's integrity the next day, and then then glue the hanger.

I read on some climbing site that some types of epoxy can have negative effects on metal, and so be sure to use glue/epoxy that's safe with metal.

[ynp1]

I would put on the hangers at a different time, so somebody doesn't come by and think it is a finished climb and fall on it and pull out all the wet glue covered bolts. But I don't red tag shit, because I think that shit is gay!

The only FA I care about would be on a grade VII and I would do them shits ground up, so I don't think anybody will steal it from me and if they can??? Good to them.

[pigsteak]

I would put on the hangers at a different time, so somebody doesn't come by and think it is a finished climb and fall on it and pull out all the wet glue covered bolts. But I don't red tag shit, because I think that shit is gay!

The only FA I care about would be on a grade VII and I would do them shits ground up, so I don't think anybody will steal it from me and if they can??? Good to them.

such a strong bold boy....