RRC Archives

dustonian wrote:

toad857 wrote:Between RQ and CT, you have two of the best climbing gyms (one for sport, other for bouldering) in the country.

You haven't been to many gyms, I reckon.

cinci, dayton, columbus, cleveland, indianapolis, pittsburgh, philadelphia, anne arbor, oklahoma city, asheville, san francisco, albuquerque, tuscon, flagstaff. add a dozen more if you want to count University walls or small co-ops, which, i don't think qualify as climbing gyms.

i like to visit regional gyms just as much as regional climbing destinations. i have a love for the art of setting a good route, which is what elevates a dingy place like climb time far above a much nicer facility with poor setting (e.g., san francisco's mega-gyms). the same can be said for rockquest. there's a reason that cinci pumps out crushers...and it ain't cuz the red is so close.

There may be a lot of climbers in Lexington, but how many of them are broke college students?

One thing that makes Bluegrass Bouldering so great is the price for a monthly pass, and the fact that you can go there whenever you want with the keycard thing. How are you going to compete with that?

I've heard a lot of the best climbers in Louisville climb at Hesters(bouldering gym) and I always wondered how they keep their endurance up for the Red if they aren't climbing routes. The answer is: A. bouldering/power training builds endurance (according to Eric Horst), and B. 4x4s.

broke college students...puleeeze. if they were truly broke, they'd be at the johnson center...that excuse gets tired...I am betting every stinking one of them has a web enabled phone..such a necessity. naw, they'd support a full service gym.

For what it's worth, I'd probably still climb at Bluegrass. If you are motivated to get fit for climbing rock, it is more than adequate.

bcombs wrote:RQ is a good gym, but I've been to many that are better (and more that are much, much worse ). Something we need in Cincinnati or from RQ possibly is a gym that is a gym and not just a spot to climb. Some things I've seen in other gyms like full weight equipment, regular yoga classes, multiple treadmills / ellipticals, stuff like that. For me it is too much to pay the monthly fee and only get climbing. This is of course based on the idea that the gym wants members and not the twice a month day pass folks. To be honest I don't know which one brings in more money.

That is mostly why I turned my garage into something that suits me. The house of pain has weights, treadmill, elliptical, treadwall and a 4 panel static wall. All in a two car garage with a flat screen TV with DirectTV.

Funny, I would avoid a gym that has yoga, treadmills, weights and the like, unless it is my only option. I think most climbers are making a huge mistake by spending so much time getting "stronger", and very little to no time getting "better". I've yet to see a single person gain more by doing yoga, p90x, running, weights or any other activity, than I've seen several gain by learning better technique and basic climbing skills, in probably half the time.

The reason another gym wouldn't work is because there aren't enough qualified setters in the area to make it a good gym. With Rockquests new boulder and many of the better boulderers making the move over there, combined with Tony Frey setting routes, there isn't a better training gym within 5 hours. Yes, you could "train" just as hard in even a gym with a single 4x8 panel... but having the diversity of Tony's very Red Riveresque routes and progressive bouldering is unbeatable.

Just to be clear, I didn't say that any of those things would make a climber better. However, I do those things anyway. So getting two for one is a good idea wouldn't you say? I would also add that while I try to get better at climbing, I'm not trying to only get better at climbing. In that case I would eat lettuce and hang at RQ all day. Personally I enjoy working out in other ways too. My goal is certainly trying to climb as hard as I can muster when I'm climbing, but I'd also like to run a marathon and participate in some competitive trail running. I wouldn't call it a mistake, but balance.

Certainly to each their own, but maybe for me (less dedicated than you are for sure) I can't see the value in paying a monthly membership to RQ. There was probably a point in the not too distance past where I would have though. It is interesting.... having an injury (not related to climbing but certainly preventing it) has made me miss running and outdoor pursuits much more than climbing. I think I have this notion that I can climb when I'm a geezer and likely hard enough to be satisfied. I get a sense though that things like trail running are a limited time only offer.

Fair enough. I'm single minded when it comes to sport, so it never even occurs to me that there are other sporting interests out there.

Redpoint wrote: I've heard a lot of the best climbers in Louisville climb at Hesters(bouldering gym) and I always wondered how they keep their endurance up for the Red if they aren't climbing routes. The answer is: A. bouldering/power training builds endurance (according to Eric Horst), and B. 4x4s.

Power training doesn't actually build endurance (it actually decreases your endurance), but a byproduct can be perceived improved endurance due to (basically) having to use less energy to do difficult cruxes.

The guys I know who climb at Hesters are solid, technically sound climbers who are always psyched and motivated, which I think goes a lot further than power training. The fact that they're strong doesn't hurt...

I cannot believe you disagreed with Eric Horst! If he can climb so good and write a goddamn book about it - while climbing with the other hand - then he can damn sure teach us all a thing or two! I wasn't going to point this out but Redpoint is too nice to say it.

If I were to drive 45 minutes.. I'd just drive to the red. I feel like a lot of people don't hang out at the gym for more than an hour or so anyway, so don't worry about what is going on in other parts of the state.

Bluegrass is too damn small. There are too many people for the amount of space. It can be uncomfortable when its occupied by someone who creeps you and/or your girlfriend out...

A gym where I used to climb (different state) had tons of people in it on any given night. It was actually big enough to acomodate lots of people at different ability levels. There were plenty of middle aged people trying it out and college kids from the 6 or so colleges within 30 minutes drive.

Its going to get crowded after people get done with work in the evenings. Who cares about 24 hour access? I only will go after work when I have time but at least there would be enough room to climb something. (hopefully)