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iniquity is legit 12b, definitely not 12c as the boulder problem is not even that hard. Cell Block is legit 12c, and Tapeworm is easy 12d.

Comparing iniquity to other 12c's is absurd. No where near as hard as orange juice, wild gift, iron lung, resurrection, 50 bucks, or jesus wept.

^
Agreed

the boulder problem on iniquity is pretty hard, especially if the temps are even mildly warm/humid. But I think calling iniquity 12b is a nice style since there are lots of hard old routes all over the east coast that have bouldery starts that are practically ingnored when grading. Like the uberfall at the gunks...pretty sure there are 5.8's with v2 starts.

The start of O'Kelley's Crack in Joshua Tree is about V3-4 and they call it 11a or even 10c in some old books!

Yes, that has been done in the past. The SoCal Stonemasters were notorious for saying that "the first ten feet don't count." That still doesn't make it any less ridiculous. I just don't believe that the initial boulder problem is all that hard with the correct beta, and is just about bang on for the grade were it a 20' 5.12b at Rumney or other roped bouldering crag.

The start of Iniquity does affect the grade. The route is a nice 12a without it. In fact, some people do just skip the boulder problem by starting on Cell Block and walking over to Iniquity via a ledge. Not the most direct way, but definitely the path of least resistance.

The question shouldn't be does Iniquity stop the 12b Red River Climber. The question should be does the start of Iniquity stop the climber that can do any V4 that he or she walks up to.

Here are a few hard start 12b's that have stood the test of time to compare Inequity to.

Strevels gets in shape
Infectious
Stretcherous
Purdy Mouth



Send these and then try to call Iniquity 12c.[/quote]

Of the four routes you named, I have been on two and was able to easily solve the bouldery cruxes in 2-3 tries (Strevel Gets in Shape and Infectious) though I did not send due to time constraints. I have tried Iniquity something more like five times without ever being able to do the low crux. Granted, it was always trying in less than ideal conditions, but I boulder much harder than V4 and find that start to be harder than anything I have ever seen on a .12b at The Red by quite a lot. Hell, the crux on Stunning the Hog is easier than those moves, and that's .12d. I don't think .12b is far off for Iniquity, but I can see why it's controversial and to me it feels a little hard for the grade.

you are doing the crux wrong, I have watched a lot of people try the crux of iniquity and they are definitely making it harder than it needs to be.

Andrew wrote:you are doing the crux wrong, I have watched a lot of people try the crux of iniquity and they are definitely making it harder than it needs to be.

I'll keep that in mind. I'd like this magic beta in a month or two. If it involves reaching I'm going to punch you in the knee caps.

dustonian wrote:The start of O'Kelley's Crack in Joshua Tree is about V3-4 and they call it 11a or even 10c in some old books!

I think the grade holds if you can slam-dunk the jug. Trick is to have someone hand you the gear sling after you do the jump.

Thats how you do the crux on iniquity. Just slam dunk the jug, two moves. Left hand up to dish, move feet up, slam dunk like your name is Blake Griffin.