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Re: Anti-spray

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 8:15 pm
by 512OW
JR wrote:
SCIN wrote:
JR wrote:Gave up on BOHICA. Completely over my head. I was never close so it didn't hurt too bad to let it go.
Dude I find that really hard to believe. You've sent some shit this year waaaay harder than that line.
Thanks SCIN. But it is true.
Specificity.

Re: Anti-spray

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 8:20 pm
by 512OW
The "one that got away" this year was a big learning experience for me, teaching me alot about timing, preparation, and dealing with setbacks.

Work on Swingline progressed quickly... too quickly... and I was falling at the end of the crux sequence when it was still 85 degrees. To keep fit, I ran laps at the Darkside, waiting for the temps to lower. First, I injured a tendon, which bounced back quickly. Back to laps. By the time the temps dropped, I was plenty fit, but had no skin left on the sides of my fingers. The pockets at the Darkside had taken their toll, and I was never able to get comfortable enough at the "rest" on Swingline to get anything back. By the time that healed, I had lost just enough fitness that I was back to falling at the end of the crux sequence. This spring, it will be timed right.

Re: Anti-spray

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 8:28 pm
by climb2core
You know, I think this "Anti-spray" thread is way more about spraying than not... Full of the hardest lines we "almost" sent. I was able to 2 hang Mosaic and Cell Block, so can I anti-spray about that too? ;)

Re: Anti-spray

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 11:18 pm
by pigsteak
climb2core wrote:You know, I think this "Anti-spray" thread is way more about spraying than not... Full of the hardest lines we "almost" sent. I was able to 2 hang Mosaic and Cell Block, so can I anti-spray about that too? ;)
+1....you mean that wasn't the whole intention?

Re: Anti-spray

Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 11:53 pm
by Barnacle Ben
Banshee and Amarillo Sunset. The main problem with both was that I ran out of time. Tried Amarillo Sunset at the end of a warm day. Only had the time and energy to give it one go. Managed to get in two go's on Banshee and felt like I had enough juice, but couldn't remember the crux sequence the second time. (I thought the crux was getting into the first hueco, not the second.) Then on the way home I realized I could have gotten a nice left kneebar rest before the section going into the first hueco. Dammit. I was only at the red for a few days and only visited each region one day. Hoping to get back on at least one of them between x-mas and nye, weather permitting. Both awesome lines too.

Re: Anti-spray

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 1:21 am
by One-Fall
JR: Gave up on BOHICA. Completely over my head. I was never close so it didn't hurt too bad to let it go.

Ray: Dude I find that really hard to believe. You've sent some shit this year waaaay harder than that line.

JR: Thanks SCIN. But it is true.

Kris: Specificity.


Learned that lesson hard this year -lee

Re: Anti-spray

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 1:21 pm
by shear
One-Fall wrote:JR: Gave up on BOHICA. Completely over my head. I was never close so it didn't hurt too bad to let it go.

Ray: Dude I find that really hard to believe. You've sent some shit this year waaaay harder than that line.

JR: Thanks SCIN. But it is true.

Kris: Specificity.


Learned that lesson hard this year -lee
Yup. Same here.

Routes of a similar grade and an even harder grade that went in a handful of attempts...yet this one really showed my Achilles heel in rock climbing, resistance climbing. No where for me to shake out on GB, which is something I thrive on...guess I know what I have to work on. Although, there are a few days next week that look very promising for a final hail mary attempt on it.

Re: Anti-spray

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 4:23 pm
by DriskellHR
I tried to send your girlfriend but could not make it over the 2nd fatroll...........

Re: Anti-spray

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 5:23 pm
by pigsteak
I am probably just old, but what is resistance climbing?

Re: Anti-spray

Posted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 6:17 pm
by dustonian
Yeah, I've noticed that is the trendy jargon-du-jour lately.... people are like birds sometimes, they hear a new noise and want to make it themselves.