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Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 1:27 am
by pawilkes
2010 is my last full year climbing at the Red and I would give it a 9 (I'm a tough grader). At the beginning of the year I layed out six climbing goals and have taken care of 5 so far: climb an 11 gear route, climb a 12c, redpoint 800 routes in the red, climb more 12s than 11s, and climb 95% of the 5.11 sport routes in the red. If the weather is ok in the next few week I might be able to take care of the last one which is climbing all sport routes under 11 in the red. (I am only counting routes that are published in the online guide and have legal access, just needed to head off the comments about all the routes at unpublished/closed crags.) I managed to get out 89 days so far this year, should bag a few more in the next couple weeks. last winter's bad weather provided some time to romp around the woods and find crags of legends past and look for future ones. speaking of which, I got to climb at some of the up and coming crags which were fantastic. getting away from the crowds or at least being in a crowd of friends at these crags was awesome. thanks for all the new routes guys.

I helped Bram build a bouldering gym which has been reasonably successful as far as I know. I actually really enjoyed the actual building process and have barely set any routes since the gym opened. I think having a gym in Lex is going to help grow the local climbing population and make them stronger as a whole. I had an awesome wedding with a fantastic photographer (http://clients.stephcarson.com/alanaxphil, if you're interested) and had a great honeymoon climbing at Seneca. I was really glad to have gotten a chance to climb there before I leave the east. My wife had a bit more time to climb this year and sent her first 11s with ease. If she had more time to climb, I'm sure she'd be knocking at 12s door.

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 2:07 am
by ted
What are you guys talking about? The REAL climbing season is just beginning , Alpine baby!!!! Oh sorry I just realized what site i was on.

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 3:44 am
by sendit
^thats real talk right there.

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 7:00 am
by pkananen
In terms of life, best year so far. In terms of climbing, not so hot.

First full year of marriage, wife got pregnant and I lost my belay slave training partner, we bought a house, and had a kid a month ago. I was in decent shape in the spring, climbing 11d in a couple of goes, but lost my fitness when life got busy. On the upside, I built a small bouldering wall that should at least keep me not weak.

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 11:02 am
by pawilkes
you forgot the most important thing Dru, you either learned to spell or used to learn spell check. I'm proud of you for that!

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 1:52 pm
by der uber
pawilkes wrote:you forgot the most important thing Dru, you either learned to spell or used to learn spell check. I'm proud of you for that!
He did? :o

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 2:00 pm
by Meadows
pawilkes wrote:My wife had a bit more time to climb this year and sent her first 11s with ease. If she had more time to climb, I'm sure she'd be knocking at 12s door.
Absolutely ... and she will! She's very tenacious. Good luck with wherever you land and we'll definitely miss you around here.

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 2:44 pm
by overhung
I'd give it a "5". Just too busy with everything else it seems. Hoping 2011 is better.

Re: 2010 Season

Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 2:48 pm
by schwagpad
0 days in the red this fall = 0.

If we're counting spring and if we average over the days climbing in the red, 10. Climbed at a crag I'd never seen and bolted a fun route.

This summer travelling in WY and Northwest was also a 10 - I met up with new friends and old friends, climbed harder than I had in a decade, put up some new routes and boulder problems, hand-drilled a bolt for the first time, climbed harder trad than ever, fell on a blue alien on multiple occasions, spent every day outside. Yep, pretty much the best summer of my life. Why can't I do that all the time?