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Doesn't matter. He still paid out too much slack for a clip so close to the ground and appears anyway to have no intention of correcting his error anytime soon.

I wonder if all the attention being paid to "safer" belaying will result in less decking but more broken ankles.

That makes no sense. Just don't sit on the rope like a retard or jump at the wrong time during a fall and you won't break any ankles on rock this steep. But don't pay out enough slack to hit the ground either for fuck's sake... it's really not rocket surgery.

Pre-climb.

Climber "Dude, quit short-roping me. This is a red point burn and the crux isn't until the last bolt, where I'm frikkin' 50 feet off the ground! And I"m super good down low."
Belayer "OK, cool..."

+1 on the bad bolting. I mean, if the climber takes a whip up high, that belayer is definitely going headfirst into the roof of that cave. They should chop the first two bolts and just let the climber "boulder" up to a nice, clean, high first bolt. then, the belayer could act as a spotter/ move the crashpad/ whatever until he gets there.

rjackson wrote:Pre-climb.

Climber "Dude, quit short-roping me. This is a red point burn and the crux isn't until the last bolt, where I'm frikkin' 50 feet off the ground! And I"m super good down low."
Belayer "OK, cool..."

Nice, exactly.

dustonian wrote:Doesn't matter. He still paid out too much slack for a clip so close to the ground and appears anyway to have no intention of correcting his error anytime soon.

It's interesting how much we seem to be able to tell from this picture. Wish we could have been there at the time.

seriously. there are too many contextual unknowns for us to say anything, really. "armchair belayer"

toad857 wrote:seriously. there are too many contextual unknowns for us to say anything, really. "armchair belayer"

too much slack near the ground is a "contextual unknown"?...I have to disagree there.... -- what's wrong with armchair belaying, I did it with my friend the other day (who would have decked the leader, too much slack)

most people figure out at some point or another (easy way? hard way?) that the "second" or perhaps "third" clip is usually "most dangerous", especially if yer a stick clipper...I have no compunction stick clipping 2, certainly if the guide sez something like on "Wild Gift"...

rjackson wrote:Pre-climb.

Climber "Dude, quit short-roping me. This is a red point burn and the crux isn't until the last bolt, where I'm frikkin' 50 feet off the ground! And I"m super good down low."
Belayer "OK, cool..."

only acceptable explanation for bad belaying is that the climber asked for it and belayer listened. It is still bad belaying. no need to belay at all through the bottom if your not doing anything.

In the first pic, I like the '2 tickle finger' belay hand on the grigri. No wonder people have problems belaying leaders with that thing if this is how they use it.