RRC Archives

SCIN wrote:This is gotten out of control man. I went up to check out the red tagness and either I'm going crazy or I saw 2 Nicros edges glued onto the wall at around the third bolt! Didn't this shit go down on some other route a few years ago? Kinda lame. I'm pretty sure I have the same two holds that are glued on.

You had me going.

Yea, only one neon yellow nicros hold and a 4' by 4' pusher sloper. I also fixed a portaledge half way up paradise lost and downgraded it to 5.9+ and added two more slings to the anchor of Dracula because the three that were already there weren't enough.

One-Fall wrote:

SCIN wrote:This is gotten out of control man. I went up to check out the red tagness and either I'm going crazy or I saw 2 Nicros edges glued onto the wall at around the third bolt! Didn't this shit go down on some other route a few years ago? Kinda lame. I'm pretty sure I have the same two holds that are glued on.

You had me going.

No joke. Will post a picture later.

Wow, egregious stoogery. This kind of BS has no place in a climbing area with so much good rock...take your glue and go sniff it at home!

Here's a picture of it. It kind of looks messed up since they had tape all around the holds still to hold them in place while the glue dries.

Ha ha Ray, you got me good man...sadly, it just doesn't sound all that far-fetched!!

dustonian wrote:Wow, egregious stoogery. This kind of BS has no place in a climbing area with so much good rock...take your glue and go sniff it at home!

Damn, I hate to chime in on this. I've been holding off...


I hate to agree with Dustonian (coksukr!!) But I'm going to have to come down on his side of this...Does glue even work in the red. I know chipping wont because you end up with a beach section(always fun)

It sounds like this route needs to fall to posterity and remain unglued. If shit breaks then let it. Stronger people (the next generation) will come along and be able to smash your unglued project. How much cooler would it be for some lone wolf to come in and slink up that mother. Don't you think that would be cool. It makes me want to go chip your glued-on bastardry off of the rock! Allah should have the last say in it as it is his line and he's clearly concerned. My $00.02 comes down on "let the chips fall where they may"

Out west I attempted a glue job and it went heinously wrong. Sloppy,ugly. If I had had a dick in my ass, I couldn't have felt more gay.I say no to glue. And Allah if you want the glue chopped, send me a pm and I'll go out and chop the glue. It just sets a bad precedent for what is acceptable in the RED!

uhhhh, do you realize how much glue is in the red already, not to mention a few manufactured holds here and there, but thanks for bailing the truck out last weekend.

I glued that jug to hold it on Malice, but am also strongly considering trundling it....in fact, that is on my agenda for next week....

gluing does seem to go over a line..been there, done that, and it is not a good conscience builder....