RRC Archives

RRO wrote:either one but the blakster is top suck for sure.....

I agree. Blake probably sucks the most. Matt, you are a very close second for level of suckness.

dustonian wrote:a common fallacy in these stupid "Euro-slack" megawhips

(Regarding the particulars of the fall in question though, if he fell from above the last two bolts on Omaha there was probably about 100' of rope out, if not more.)

U sure it wasn't a "trust fall"?


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dustonian wrote:
pretty idiotic... ropes are only rated for a discrete number of factor 1 falls (or ONE factor 2), usually only 5 to 8 for typical sub-10mm sport climbing ropes.

Ropes are rated on a finite number of factor 2 falls. They test them at the extreme end of the spectrum. As a sport climber this makes me feel really good, as it is virtually impossible to get close to a factor 2 fall on a single pitch climb.

chriss wrote:

dustonian wrote:
pretty idiotic... ropes are only rated for a discrete number of factor 1 falls (or ONE factor 2), usually only 5 to 8 for typical sub-10mm sport climbing ropes.

Ropes are rated on a finite number of factor 2 falls. They test them at the extreme end of the spectrum. As a sport climber this makes me feel really good, as it is virtually impossible to get close to a factor 2 fall on a single pitch climb.

Not exactly. Single ropes are rated based on "UIAA falls," which consist of dropping an 80kg weight 15 feet onto 9' of rope until it breaks... in other words, a factor 1.67 fall. Granted, this is still fairly reassuring (if only it weren't for all those pesky knife-edged fixed draws everywhere!). Most manufacturers recommend counting any factor 1 fall as a UIAA fall and retiring any rope after a fall anywhere close to factor 2.

Lots of sources on this including:
http://www.climbing.com/print/equipment/slender/
http://www.theuiaa.org/safety_standards.php

retarded discussion about factor 1s, 2s, ratings, et cetera. go find something else to do.

You're right, it has no relevance to climbing.

dustonian wrote:

chriss wrote:

dustonian wrote:
pretty idiotic... ropes are only rated for a discrete number of factor 1 falls (or ONE factor 2), usually only 5 to 8 for typical sub-10mm sport climbing ropes.

Ropes are rated on a finite number of factor 2 falls. They test them at the extreme end of the spectrum. As a sport climber this makes me feel really good, as it is virtually impossible to get close to a factor 2 fall on a single pitch climb.

Not exactly. Single ropes are rated based on "UIAA falls," which consist of dropping an 80kg weight 15 feet onto 9' of rope until it breaks... in other words, a factor 1.67 fall. Granted, this is still fairly reassuring (if only it weren't for all those pesky knife-edged fixed draws everywhere!). Most manufacturers recommend counting any factor 1 fall as a UIAA fall and retiring any rope after a fall anywhere close to factor 2.

Lots of sources on this including:
http://www.climbing.com/print/equipment/slender/
http://www.theuiaa.org/safety_standards.php

O.k., I guess I had a misconception of how they tested the ropes. I found a couple websites claiming a fall factor 2, and several others claiming the following:

"The UIAA test that determines a ropeís strength is called the drop test. The test uses a 176-pound (80-kilogram) weight for single ropes and 121 pounds (50 kilograms) for half ropes. In the test, the weight is tied onto the rope above an anchor. The weight is then dropped 16.4 feet on a 9.2-foot section of rope. This creates a fall factor of 1.8. The fall factor is determined by dividing the amount of rope out of the anchor by the vertical distance fallen. The most serious theoretical fall is one with a fall factor of 2."

So I guess I was trying to point out that the fall factors on the tests are much closer to 2 than 1. I wonder why they do not test with a fall factor 2. It seems as though they would want to test the worst case scenario?

Yeah, it's weird. I think it's because they want to test how the rope performs going up though a skinny carabiner in a big fall.

why don't people adopt a route they want to put steel on, and go do the work too..maybe a bit of ownership will help....

pigsteak wrote:why don't people adopt a route they want to put steel on, and go do the work too..maybe a bit of ownership will help....

That's exactly what i did