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that was the same day I got to the top of the fury.....bolt to bolt.....I try to block that shit out

bcombs wrote:

Rollo wrote:any slab 10d or better.

+1

That is some truth right there. If mid 11 is your max, visit Chica Bonita for a reality check.

i'm actually heading there tomorrow... can't wait for my ass whooping.

on the bright side, i'll have something to post here after. that is if i can climb at all...

i turned 35 this year as well and i think the biggest thing for me is gonna be trying to stay uninjured. went to Climb Time a week and a half ago and tried to do some campusing at the end of the night like i used to... ended up with a fucked up neck that still feels like i got in a car wreck this morning.

i think the biggest ego check for me is feeling the pain more than a week after.

some what whack considering the original thread title but I have found my mind wonders to things I should/could be doing at home or work related while I was making every effort to get to the Red as much as possible, now I have prioritized my time and efforts on those two so I hope to see the benefits of a clear mind when its time to send some heinous 10b jughaul

krampus wrote:that was the same day I got to the top of the fury.....bolt to bolt.....I try to block that shit out

That climb isn't even a real 12, I was talking about the other 12 at Ten Sleep. Thanks for reminding me though, my day just got brighter! I'm sorry I like to watch you flail, it must have been all those years of shit-talking you slung my way (and I would like to have it no other way I might add).

The first time I ever went climbing was at Bruisebrothers and The Great Wall in Muir. The guys that brought me just wanted to give me a good time so they were putting all these 7 and 8s up for me and I was flying up them all. Thought I was a BA. I remember starting at Rising and telling them all I could do it. Me, the first time I have ever been climbing in my life, and I am telling experienced climbers I could do what they weren't willing or couldn't do at the time.
I start going to the gym and I am decent there. 9s are no problem, 10as and 10bs push me.
Fast forward two years. I am still only sending mid 10s outside. So I should have had a reality check there, but I didn't. I decided to try Hippocrite, which seems to be a consistent ego smasher here. I can't get the throw, and it is the first route I have ever been completely shutdown on. I can't even bolt to bolt or anything. Talk about depressing. But I started training my butt off. I started seeing gains too. Fast forward two years from 2007 and I try Ro on lead, don't get it, my buddy tries TRing it to clean, and he can't do it so I put everything I have into it on TR. I get it on TR. I felt great. It was my 26th birthday and I knew I was getting stronger.
I try Hippocrite again that summer before I head off to Mexico for a month. I one fall it. Sad. I am angry at that route, and mostly myself.
So I take a month and a half off from climbing last summer and my buddy and I decided to have a good day at the Boneyard as my first day back to climbing. We planned on doing all the 8s and 9s there and maybe a couple of easy 10s. I got spit off of Abby Gabby Do, the short 8, like 3 times. It was a horrible day. My spirit was broken. I was worse than when I started climbing. Since then I have had a baby, and moved so I don't get to work endurance at a gym and I only boulder on my wall. So I have worked myself back up to the 11 range and can still one fall Hippocrite, like I did about a month ago. That route keeps me training though. I got 40 percent of the route put up as problems on my bouldering wall. One day I will get it. One day it will go down.

Worried about turning 35? I didn't start climbing until I hit 40.

Train and get used to the pain...

Crack climbing with Randy Leavitt and Odub in J-Tree was a Ego check for me. We where climbing a roof crack that is close to the ground called More Monkey that Funky. I had tried it previously and had figured out some beta. But then I watched Randy and Odub climb it straight on hand over hand. It looked natural. They both used exactly the same beta and technique. So I tried it that way and got shut down. I am sort of stubborn so I got shut down again, again and again. On the ground, Randy felt bad for my lack of skill and offered some advice. The advice was simple and to the point. The advice you would give someone on his first day of crack climbing. It stung.

I wanted to blame him for not understanding that this route was at my technical limit of crack climbing and to cut me some slack. Things can get a little ugly when things get difficult. But he was right. It was obvious to him that I had not perfected basic crack climbing techniques that most climbers learn early on. He called me on it.

Thanks Randy. It needed to be said. EGO CHECKED!

I've gotten whipped on a few 11's that I can't figure out how to do:
Drip Wire, no clue how this is 11a
Much Ado About Nothing, its like 5.9 to bitch slap move.
Pongosapian, maybe in the winter i could do the move
Red Shift, again colder weather and decent shoes are needed
Sacred Stones, no clue and i first got on it before the only good hold on the start broke
Team Wilander, fell on the crux of this thing many times. makes for one hell of a screamer
Tecumseh's Curse, no way an 11b but not many people get out there to get on it

and in the land to 12's, Freakin' Deacon shut me down pretty bad last month.

JR wrote:Crack climbing with Randy Leavitt and Odub in J-Tree was a Ego check for me. We where climbing a roof crack that is close to the ground called More Monkey that Funky. I had tried it previously and had figured out some beta. But then I watched Randy and Odub climb it straight on hand over hand. It looked natural. They both used exactly the same beta and technique. So I tried it that way and got shut down. I am sort of stubborn so I got shut down again, again and again. On the ground, Randy felt bad for my lack of skill and offered some advice. The advice was simple and to the point. The advice you would give someone on his first day of crack climbing. It stung.

I wanted to blame him for not understanding that this route was at my technical limit of crack climbing and to cut me some slack. Things can get a little ugly when things get difficult. But he was right. It was obvious to him that I had not perfected basic crack climbing techniques that most climbers learn early on. He called me on it.

Thanks Randy. It needed to be said. EGO CHECKED!

You should have yelled at him, said "Well I can slope on slopers better than you RANDY!" , and walked around quickly (like a dog looking for a place to poop) looking for a good sloper to have a slope-off competition on.

whatahutch wrote:.....hypocrite....

don't feel too bad, that rout took me, and many others I know several years to redpoint. I even worked it consistently for several weeks in a row only to fail every time.