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well, I can't say I have ever been on a harder 5.6 than eureka. I mean that jug where you put your foot up and stand is definitely 6+ maybe even 6++.

Trad is just like sport. Some routs are sandbaged, and some are soft. I think that one of the biggest sandbaged routs could be rock rash over at muscle beach. Its rated 9+ and that basically meant, 5.9 OW plus a V4 start. Gotta love the old school

krampus wrote:I think that one of the biggest sandbaged routs could be rock rash over at muscle beach. Its rated 9+ and that basically meant, 5.9 OW plus a V4 start. Gotta love the old school

Whatever you pansy-ass "I act like I wanna trad climb" but never do. Learn some technique! I think it's about time for another nipple-whipping to set you straight. Ahab, when are you guys gonna give me another show acting like you can send 5.11 trad?

Brentucky wrote:Ahab, when are you guys gonna give me another show acting like you can send 5.11 trad?

i dunno what you're talkin' about. i spent 3 hours climbing a 5.7 yesterday.
tell ya what though, i'll give you a show nice n proper if you put up a 9+ crack of my choice.

oh, as for the "trad grades are harder than sport", i've seen the light.
trad climbers are pussies.

ahab wrote:i'll give you a show nice n proper if you put up a 9+ crack of my choice.

That's crazy talk! We both know I can't even send a 5.9 on TR if it is "of your choice." I think I'll just keep my title as the side-line shit-talker and laugh at you guys instead.

cliftongifford wrote:trad in the red is for those who want to avoid the crowds of people waiting in line to clip bolts.

the rrg is probably one of the best multi-discipline trad areas in the world with it's ridiculous amount of features. it's a training ground for bigger things, kinda like bouldering for mountains... i don't know of many summits around the world that are accessed by clipping bolts.

don't get me wrong, i love clipping bolts too.

call me next time you think you have to wait in line to clip bolts..I can turn you towards a hndred quality sport routes wiht no waiting...

pigsteak wrote:[

call me next time you think you have to wait in line to clip bolts..I can turn you towards a hndred quality sport routes wiht no waiting...

Are you going to trick him into Curbside?

hahahaha....


no.


maybe in the dead of winter.


thanks for the offer pig... I may take you up on it sometime. I'm sure there's a few places you know about.

Crankmas wrote:trad ratings are like looking everywhere for your cellphone only to realize you have it in your hand and talking through it..
sport ratings are like being in a swimming pool and pissing only to wake up and realize you just wet the bed...

Franks is a genius. I am going to start mining this site for these insights and sell them to zen masters.
This statement is this amazing insight of a guy with his head above the rest of the crowd and able to see greater truths. You know how I know this? I sense it is true, but I am too close to the truth to understand it.
Thank you Frank.

So, I know my overhanging jug-haul technique is better than my hand-jamming technique, but how much technique are you supposed to need for a 5.7? And am I supposed to have bruises on my hands from jamming a 5.7? (Environmental Impact at Pebble Beach this weekend - not as hard as Vision, but comparable to some of the harder 5.8 trad routes I've been on - harder than Snake, but possibly easier than Into the Purple Valley and Bombs Bursting). The rating system exists, therefore we will argue about it.

But trad climbing gives me access to multi-pitch climbing, so I will suck it up and keep trying.

my guess is that your footwork could help. limber up those ankles.