Spraylord Wanted

Post by **SCIN** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:03 pm

Plenty of pro.

Post by **krampus** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:34 pm

thunderchicken looks pretty bad ass

Post by **jrathfon** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:53 pm

anymore photos than the one of ray?

Post by **krampus** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:54 pm

yeah, cus maybe it wasn't thunder chicken that looked bad ass....just ray

Post by **jrathfon** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:56 pm

side note: anybody know what pins one needs for right on, solid, and far out?

Post by **clif** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 1:18 am

sounds like "haas" has good beta if you pm him (from online route guide?)

Post by **SCIN** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 2:20 am

jrathfon wrote:anymore photos than the one of ray?

Sorry man, looked for some but couldn't find any. That was actually the last roof crack I ever climbed. I was pulling around the lip and felt a tweak in my neck. I couldn't turn my head for days and my fingers went so numb I couldn't button my shirt in the morning for several weeks. A disk slipped out of my neck and caused me some issues. I was out of climbing for awhile then Dave Pegg approached me to do a guidebook for the Red. I was excited to do it because I knew I couldn't climb but would still be able to run around in the woods and take pictures of climbs and write about them. Since then I've been so scared to do any offwidth type climbs because of what happened to my neck on that route. Those weird roof cracks require major tweaking of the body. Wow, sorry, that just brought back some memories.

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 1:23 am

SCIN wrote:
jrathfon wrote:anymore photos than the one of ray?
Sorry man, looked for some but couldn't find any. That was actually the last roof crack I ever climbed. I was pulling around the lip and felt a tweak in my neck. I couldn't turn my head for days and my fingers went so numb I couldn't button my shirt in the morning for several weeks. A disk slipped out of my neck and caused me some issues. I was out of climbing for awhile then Dave Pegg approached me to do a guidebook for the Red. I was excited to do it because I knew I couldn't climb but would still be able to run around in the woods and take pictures of climbs and write about them. Since then I've been so scared to do any offwidth type climbs because of what happened to my neck on that route. Those weird roof cracks require major tweaking of the body. Wow, sorry, that just brought back some memories.

wuss.

Post by **jrathfon** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:54 pm

back on the main topic (more spray):

got synchronicity 3rd attempt saturday.
got my ass handed to me on crack attack a week ago.
went to muscle beach and learned how to OW, man 8+ is hard.

Post by **rjackson** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:02 pm

Ah, I gotta remember the trad spray thread. Posted in the original Spraylords, but forgot about this one.

I sent a project/FA yesterday over at Chocolate Factory. Had to add a bolt to keep it from being R, maybe even X. Either way, the top 3/4 is all gear.

Some cool moves down low lead to a chossy ledge (but a good stance) below a thin dihedral. It's all there, there just ain't much of it. There's three good areas for fingers, each successively getting smaller before it totally shuts down, leaving you wondering what to do and still 8 feet from your next piece. If you want the super-cool beta you'll have to get on it and I'll spray you down, but three or four grunts later and you've made a stance. Place a suspect piece (or two, or three) in a smallish chossy ledge before another set of cool moves to overcome a bulge to the right. Step through, find a great side pull and step up into a hand crack of sorts for another 30-ish feet of easier(?) climbing, and bomber gear the whole way to the anchors Clip the chains, enjoy the view (and the send?).

It takes a wide variety of style to get to the top, with some pretty cool moves sprinkled about. Not recommended for the feint of heart or as a first 10 lead (it's going at 10b). Should show up in the on-line guide soon. PM me if you want beta.