RRC Archives

Redpoint wrote:Yes it matters, I already said that both petzl and black diamond tell you how to place a draw, and I have personally tested(and demonstrated to others) this phenomenon of how the rope can come unclipped like that.

First of all, I would like to hear someone's opinion who is not you. From reading your posts so far, you don't seem to be the most experienced climber on earth (sorry for making that assumption, but that is what i have deduced).

My thought being that the manufacturer will often times make recommendations that might not be completely necessary for safety sake, but more of a good idea. But I must say that you have my curiosity to the point now where i will have to go and do the experiment myself. I am trying to visualize how a non back clipped draw could come unclipped on it's own, and i can't picture it. I will try it when i get home and let you know what i find.

gripster wrote:I am trying to visualize how a non back clipped draw could come unclipped on it's own, and i can't picture it.

exactly. now try to actually make this happen while climbing. try to make a back-clipped draw fail while your at it. let us know what happens. we highly anticipate the results.

btw, this thread kicks ass now. keep it going.

Jeff wrote:Would it matter which way their junk were facing?

Facing away from me... that way I can kick their ass and their junk at the same time. Saves me the hassle of two kicks. That, and I don't have to worry about the "Back-kick" scenario where I miss them and kick myself in the junk.

Jeff wrote:Would it matter which way their junk were facing?

hell yes it matters! petzl sayz that you should kick people in their junk away from other belayers so it doesn't present a safety hazard.

Would it matter which way their junk were facing?

From what I have heard from the girls gossiping at the crag, in your case you should just look out for the small pockets. Just kidding with ya.

i never said a back clipped draw wouldn't come unclipped? i am only kind of stupid you see.

bcombs wrote:I hang the draws facing whichever way is convenient for the clipping jug.

If someone gave me shit for the direction the draws were facing I would come down and kick them square in the junk. Just a warning.

word. the only people who worry about gate direction are probably climbing some chossy 5.8 trad route with a horrid traverse, or gumbies climbing 5.7 sport at Muir.

Redpoint wrote:Yes it matters, I already said that both petzl and black diamond tell you how to place a draw, and I have personally tested(and demonstrated to others) this phenomenon of how the rope can come unclipped like that.

Haha, I can't not comment on this!

I mean, finally, someone that does it by the books! By the way, I will gladly dispose of any ropes that you took more than 5 falls on (I'm sure you retire them as recommended) and any cams/quickdraws you may have dropped on the ground.

Safety is VERY important at the crag. I actually carry around a small can of mace to spray anyone holding down the brake on their gri gri or otherwise violating any instruction manuals what-so-ever.

Redpoint, I'm still hoping that SCIN gives you a two page spread in the new guidebook about safe climbing and the best soft 5.7 sport climbs in the Red.

junk is only facing one direction....to the wall...balls to the wall gentleman...balls to da WALLL.