Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2003 7:00 pm
i heard tech. foul was .12b too. actually when terry put it up he told me .12b for onsight and .12a after you know whats up.
Mj
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The Arena - your input, feedback, criticism wanted!
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Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2003 7:05 pm
Definitely. When I hear the term "soft" or "easy" I automatically subtract one letter in my head. .....and ask for her phone number.....
Mj
Mj
Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2003 7:19 pm
Now H-F...don't start that... we all know once the draws are up or gear is placed and you have been on the climb it "feels" easier, but we don't need two guide books...one with on-sight grades and one with Red Point grades that are a notch easier!
You like your women soft, eh SikMonkey!
You like your women soft, eh SikMonkey!
Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2003 12:38 am
Just got back from a month in New Zealand! What an incredible country...Lynne wrote:Hey Yasmeen! Where the hell have you been, girl?
Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2003 2:20 am
...don't forget easy. 
Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2003 2:46 am
I thought Big in Japan felt like an 8. Easy at first, but pretty powerful bulge section.
That route with "9" in it felt like 10d+ when I led it. Slopey, funky, a bit dirty. I hope it's at least a 10. The thing to its left looks like a 12 too.
That route with "9" in it felt like 10d+ when I led it. Slopey, funky, a bit dirty. I hope it's at least a 10. The thing to its left looks like a 12 too.
Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2003 11:21 am
I am pretty sure the thing to the left of plan 9 or project 9 or whatever its called is a 12a. I led "plan 9" about a week after it was bolted and thought it was probably 10a at least. I then lead it a week later and pulled off about 50 pounds of rock. Some of this rock were good holds. So maybe it got harder.
Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2003 7:40 pm
Tech foul is harder than Tip Off.
Tech foul 12b
Tip off 12a
Tech foul 12b
Tip off 12a
Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2003 1:28 am
Lynne - I goofed before I think. I was thinking of Stage Freight (the one move .12a), not Technical Foul.
Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2003 7:39 pm
Okay folks, I'm finally getting back to this. Here is the latest list. If you have anymore changes, please post up. There are still some questions on ratings to be resolved, but I'll go with majority opinions for now. Except on Technical Foul. If it's 12a once you know the sequence, isn't it still 12a??
I'll start entering The Arena tomorrow. Once it is in I could use FA, length, bolt count, move, directions and description information if you've got it. Thanks, everyone, for your input!
1) Big in Japan 5.8
2) Stairway to Freebird 5.10c
3) Rebel Yell 5.10c
4) (Southern Comfort) 5.10a
5) Chocolate Waterfall 5.10a
6) Hat Trick 5.9
7) Exacta 5.7
8) Edge of Your Seat 5.10a
9) Split Decision (trad) 5.9
10) Main Event 5.12a
- update on this route since Verbal trashed the good holds please?
11) Plan 9 (5.9+ or 10what?)
12) Karmic Disruption 5.10d
13) Technical Foul 5.12a
14) Over Time 5.12c
15) Sudden Death 5.12d
15a) trad 5.9 dihedral w/ anchors (Kellyn Gorder)
15b) Tip Off 5.12b (not sure about location)
The Arena proper:
16) Stage Fright 5.12a
17) Dope Show 5.11c
18) Standing Ovation 5.11a
19) Opening Act 5.11a
20) Encore 5.10d
21) Take a Bow 5.10c
22) Despair 5.8
These next 5 routes are on the buttress
above the main parking area:
23) Two Pitcher 5.10b
24) open project 5.12a/b
25) John Bronaugh trad project 5.11d R
26) open project 5.12c/d
27) 5.9 trad flake w/ anchors
28) 5.11 sport slab ??
29) 5.10c sport slab
start above ladder on dirt ledge
30) Through the Turnstile (5.7 or 5.8 ?)
trad dihedral start above ladder on dirt ledge
31) Penalty Box (5.6 or 5.7 ?) sport
32) Blake's 5.13a project (2nd pitch)
33) trad crack to anchors of #31)
Sorry Gothmog, I've done Exacta and talked to the FA as well and watched a couple of people climb it and it's 5.7. I think you might agree if you do it again.
I agree that Big in Japan is harder than Blue Plate Special after doing both this weekend. We thought Stairway to Freebird was a 9 and MY EIGHT YEAR OLD DAUGHTER (& I) SENT IT on top rope! Is it really a 10c?? I thought Rebel Yell was way harder than Stairway to Freebird. Anyone care to comment on these routes?
If I missed anything, please let me know.
I'll start entering The Arena tomorrow. Once it is in I could use FA, length, bolt count, move, directions and description information if you've got it. Thanks, everyone, for your input!
1) Big in Japan 5.8
2) Stairway to Freebird 5.10c
3) Rebel Yell 5.10c
4) (Southern Comfort) 5.10a
5) Chocolate Waterfall 5.10a
6) Hat Trick 5.9
7) Exacta 5.7
8) Edge of Your Seat 5.10a
9) Split Decision (trad) 5.9
10) Main Event 5.12a
- update on this route since Verbal trashed the good holds please?
11) Plan 9 (5.9+ or 10what?)
12) Karmic Disruption 5.10d
13) Technical Foul 5.12a
14) Over Time 5.12c
15) Sudden Death 5.12d
15a) trad 5.9 dihedral w/ anchors (Kellyn Gorder)
15b) Tip Off 5.12b (not sure about location)
The Arena proper:
16) Stage Fright 5.12a
17) Dope Show 5.11c
18) Standing Ovation 5.11a
19) Opening Act 5.11a
20) Encore 5.10d
21) Take a Bow 5.10c
22) Despair 5.8
These next 5 routes are on the buttress
above the main parking area:
23) Two Pitcher 5.10b
24) open project 5.12a/b
25) John Bronaugh trad project 5.11d R
26) open project 5.12c/d
27) 5.9 trad flake w/ anchors
28) 5.11 sport slab ??
29) 5.10c sport slab
start above ladder on dirt ledge
30) Through the Turnstile (5.7 or 5.8 ?)
trad dihedral start above ladder on dirt ledge
31) Penalty Box (5.6 or 5.7 ?) sport
32) Blake's 5.13a project (2nd pitch)
33) trad crack to anchors of #31)
Sorry Gothmog, I've done Exacta and talked to the FA as well and watched a couple of people climb it and it's 5.7. I think you might agree if you do it again.
I agree that Big in Japan is harder than Blue Plate Special after doing both this weekend. We thought Stairway to Freebird was a 9 and MY EIGHT YEAR OLD DAUGHTER (& I) SENT IT on top rope! Is it really a 10c?? I thought Rebel Yell was way harder than Stairway to Freebird. Anyone care to comment on these routes?
If I missed anything, please let me know.