Best 5.12A?

Post by **anticlmber** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 2:56 am

the gift, its good but its 11d.
others, head and shoulders, gold rush, Robster Craw!!!!, wearing out my welcome, yankee go home, camp, the infidel, all things considered (KICK ASS!!!!) corpus delecti, papa loves jugs, stella, return of some red headed douche bag from north carolina, i think his name is christy??; its at roadside.

Ro Shampo 12 if you need the grade, 11d if you don't.

faves.....??>>>>
check your grip
hippocrit (the best)
outbreak
gun-ho
ballscratcher, (the route description says it all)
little teapot
pine
dogleg
too many puppies
\anything that looks good

Post by **Izzy** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 8:55 am

I just want to say that the community on here kicks ass. I posted this question hoping to find some insight I couldn't get from the guide book. I've read every response and looked up every route referenced here so thanks to everyone for their input. Seeing as how I am terrible with enduro climbing, and seem to excel at technical dihedrals and arete's, I'll be gunning for " Too many puppies" and "Break the scene" this year. I'm not exactly "all about the numbers" but 5.12 is a personal goal of mine and I've found the tsunami of responses very inspiring. Thanks again, and keep this discussion going.

Post by **Rollo** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 1:57 pm

Andrew wrote:wow expresso must be soft

Thanks buddy!..... and sadly, yes it is.

Post by **Andrew** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 3:27 pm

No problem. There are easier twelves out there.

Post by **pigsteak** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 3:54 pm

Andrew wrote:No problem. There are easier twelves out there.

and if they are on andrew's tick list, go ahead and assume they are 11d tops....

Post by **Rollo** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 4:53 pm

Andrew wrote:No problem. There are easier twelves out there.

That's cool cuz I just thought of a way that you could make it up to me for bashing my highest rated send at the gorge....

I'm going to allow you to take me on a tour of the easier twelves wherein you will hang the draws and give me the super-secret beta and leave the first draw clipped in and belay me on it until your nuts fall off. If these terms seem acceptable, give me a call.

P.S. you're driving and i'm forgetting to bring gas money.

Post by **toad857** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 5:11 pm

shift your focus from sending a 12 to sending a good and worthwhile 12. screw the numbers--just find a climb that steals your heart and then work it. it will be much more satisfying that way. also, i'd recommend something tall vs. something short

i'd recommend anything at drive-by (esp. check your grip) or anything at military (esp. reliquary).

Post by **pigsteak** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 6:04 pm

toad is way off base. focus on sending easy 12s, so your ego bursts and picking up chicks at miggies is a whole lot easier. an easy 12a brings more spray points than 11d, and the same points as a hard 12a, so focus on the points man...the points.

is a climb "steals your heart", then you need a life.

Post by **vvoodchuck008** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 6:32 pm

don't be so focused on the grade,, its having fun that makes it worth it to drive all that way every, weekend. Just earn that beer at the end of the day and its all good' right?

Post by **stix** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 6:57 pm

all things considered is 11d, but is a really good shallow dihedral. techy for the red too. one of the finest i've been on in some time