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Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:29 pm
by bcombs
ynot wrote:... Fadda is an exception.
I got 3/4 of the way up before I remembered it was a trad line and I had a job to do that I was ignoring. Good thing it's easy. :)

Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:32 pm
by ynot
I sometimes forget to clip bolts and I'm looking for pro until my belayor yells at me.

Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 5:44 pm
by pigsteak
remind me to never climb with you guys who can't keep your concentration.

Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 10:23 pm
by Myke Dronez
ahab wrote:the guy asks about the future of route deveolpment in the red and the next thing you know cracks are getting bolted! :shock: :cry:
Is nothing safe from the drill? Shall we do away with R rated climbs? What will become of the bold ascent? is that when you only stick clip the first?

Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 11:13 pm
by ynot
The R routes in the national forest are remaining ,but the trend on private land is away from that. It's OK all those old routes would see a lot more traffic if they weren't R. Some of them are pretty good.

Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 2:18 am
by schwagpad
pigsteak wrote:is this answering your question schwag? or are you getting at something like this...I walk up to a cliff, one where we have access. I spot a beautiful area with potential for 10-15 sport lines. But then I gaze into the future, and see climbers fifty years from now enjoying that process of developing, so instead of throwing in some bolts, I call together a band of brothers, and hasten them to save this crag for future generations..is that along the lines of your thinking?
I don't know...it was pretty idle insomniac thinking. Truth was, I was reading this book called Cradle to Cradle (worth the read) and was thinking about preservation issues, and then was fondly remembering the routes I put up in the red and one thing led to another...

The thought of a completely tapped red river gorge is a scary one. It would be the end of an era whether it happens in ten years or three generations. Fact is, barring a catastrophe it will happen.

I was also thinking, if the Red were bolted like Boulder Canyon there would be at least 10,000 routes left. That's something to look forward to...

Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 2:20 am
by schwagpad
er not.

Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 3:12 am
by caribe
Myke Dronez wrote:
ahab wrote:the guy asks about the future of route deveolpment in the red and the next thing you know cracks are getting bolted! :shock: :cry:
Is nothing safe from the drill? Shall we do away with R rated climbs? What will become of the bold ascent? is that when you only stick clip the first?
Okay you two with your, aesthetics and ethics. Do I have to remind you where the door is? :) , well, do I?

Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 3:13 am
by 512OW
ynot wrote:Because bolting a whole protectable crack is lame. A protectable face could go either way. Most of them I have done didn't protect that well. Face Farce American Wall and the one up at Purple come to mind. Fadda is an exception.
Depends on your protection skills. I think American Wall can be easily overprotected. I've placed something like 23 different pieces, all solid, on that route, just to see how many I could use...

Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 3:13 am
by caribe
Green roofs, green coal :?: :?: green climbing? There are areas older and smaller than the red that have aged into zero development. I imagine the same thing would happen to the red only the asymptote will be approached slower.