I got 3/4 of the way up before I remembered it was a trad line and I had a job to do that I was ignoring. Good thing it's easy.ynot wrote:... Fadda is an exception.
Sustainable route development
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Is nothing safe from the drill? Shall we do away with R rated climbs? What will become of the bold ascent? is that when you only stick clip the first?ahab wrote:the guy asks about the future of route deveolpment in the red and the next thing you know cracks are getting bolted!
The only escape is up.
I don't know...it was pretty idle insomniac thinking. Truth was, I was reading this book called Cradle to Cradle (worth the read) and was thinking about preservation issues, and then was fondly remembering the routes I put up in the red and one thing led to another...pigsteak wrote:is this answering your question schwag? or are you getting at something like this...I walk up to a cliff, one where we have access. I spot a beautiful area with potential for 10-15 sport lines. But then I gaze into the future, and see climbers fifty years from now enjoying that process of developing, so instead of throwing in some bolts, I call together a band of brothers, and hasten them to save this crag for future generations..is that along the lines of your thinking?
The thought of a completely tapped red river gorge is a scary one. It would be the end of an era whether it happens in ten years or three generations. Fact is, barring a catastrophe it will happen.
I was also thinking, if the Red were bolted like Boulder Canyon there would be at least 10,000 routes left. That's something to look forward to...
Okay you two with your, aesthetics and ethics. Do I have to remind you where the door is? , well, do I?Myke Dronez wrote:Is nothing safe from the drill? Shall we do away with R rated climbs? What will become of the bold ascent? is that when you only stick clip the first?ahab wrote:the guy asks about the future of route deveolpment in the red and the next thing you know cracks are getting bolted!
Depends on your protection skills. I think American Wall can be easily overprotected. I've placed something like 23 different pieces, all solid, on that route, just to see how many I could use...ynot wrote:Because bolting a whole protectable crack is lame. A protectable face could go either way. Most of them I have done didn't protect that well. Face Farce American Wall and the one up at Purple come to mind. Fadda is an exception.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com