Training Power

[Cleveland]

I am just going to finally admit it. I suck.

I was actually embarrased with myself when I was climbing Frugal Chariot. Even though I sent, as I was climbing I was thinking about my fitness, not even about the climb. I was thinking about how I was getting pumped on big holds, after ten feet of climbing. Flashing a 12a is pretty easy, and not much of an accomplishment.

I really need to get on a training schedule that helps me climb better at the Red, which is what I love. My problems is this:
I don't have a consistent training schedule or outside climbing schedule. This is because my job(meetings, coaching, other random events), and my family.

I can't ever consistently climb at the red to build endurance because of obligations, and or to project things.

How can I train properly despite my crazy schedule?

Since I have been going to climb time in the last month, I have noticed that my strength and technique have significantly improved. However, I have noticed that my endurance is crap. I often see people running circuits on the boulder problems on the 30 degree wall. Does anyone have any expierience with this? Does it improve endurance by a lot or is it not worth doing? It seems to me that it would help but is the time and energy worth it?

[512OW]

I am just going to finally admit it. I suck.

I was actually embarrased with myself when I was climbing Frugal Chariot. Even though I sent, as I was climbing I was thinking about my fitness, not even about the climb. I was thinking about how I was getting pumped on big holds, after ten feet of climbing. Flashing a 12a is pretty easy, and not much of an accomplishment.

I really need to get on a training schedule that helps me climb better at the Red, which is what I love. My problems is this:
I don't have a consistent training schedule or outside climbing schedule. This is because my job(meetings, coaching, other random events), and my family.

I can't ever consistently climb at the red to build endurance because of obligations, and or to project things.

How can I train properly despite my crazy schedule?

Since I have been going to climb time in the last month, I have noticed that my strength and technique have significantly improved. However, I have noticed that my endurance is crap. I often see people running circuits on the boulder problems on the 30 degree wall. Does anyone have any expierience with this? Does it improve endurance by a lot or is it not worth doing? It seems to me that it would help but is the time and energy worth it?

Look for info online about 4x4's. They work wonders, when done strictly. One thing that is often called "endurance", but is a whole nother thing, is "recovery". Learn to shake out, to gauge your level of pump, and to recover on progressively smaller holds. I bet you suck at it, even though you may think you don't. It took me a year of training almost ONLY recovery to feel like I was good at it, and in the Red, its the most helpful tool you'll have.

[caribe]

"but is a whole other thing, is "recovery". Learn to shake out, to gauge your level of pump, and to recover on progressively smaller holds."

This is good advice. I have been recently following it. I have seen results, so I am cranking this aspect of my training up a bit. I heard 'recovery' previously from a few climbers that have my props including the freakishly dexterous dude quoted above.

[Brentucky]

where are you training caribe? don't be holding out on me now; you saw the jugs i couldn't "recover" on! i don't want to suck forever man, help me out!

[Cleveland]

quote]

Look for info online about 4x4's. They work wonders, when done strictly. One thing that is often called "endurance", but is a whole nother thing, is "recovery". Learn to shake out, to gauge your level of pump, and to recover on progressively smaller holds. I bet you suck at it, even though you may think you don't. It took me a year of training almost ONLY recovery to feel like I was good at it, and in the Red, its the most helpful tool you'll have.

So is it better to climb until you are so pumped you fall off of the holds or to get a good pump going then try to shake out and take a rest? Also does anyone know of any good reading materials that will teach me how to learn to rest on the smaller holds? I am looking to move up a number grade and resting is my biggest enemy.

[512OW]

quote]

Look for info online about 4x4's. They work wonders, when done strictly. One thing that is often called "endurance", but is a whole nother thing, is "recovery". Learn to shake out, to gauge your level of pump, and to recover on progressively smaller holds. I bet you suck at it, even though you may think you don't. It took me a year of training almost ONLY recovery to feel like I was good at it, and in the Red, its the most helpful tool you'll have.

So is it better to climb until you are so pumped you fall off of the holds or to get a good pump going then try to shake out and take a rest? Also does anyone know of any good reading materials that will teach me how to learn to rest on the smaller holds? I am looking to move up a number grade and resting is my biggest enemy.

They work 2 different things. To work recovery, shake out and rest when you can. To work endurance or power endurance, climb till you fall... sort of. Read up on Interval Training. Its the basic thought behind 4x4's.

[caribe]

where are you training caribe? don't be holding out on me now; you saw the jugs i couldn't "recover" on! i don't want to suck forever man, help me out!

Tutugirl, 512OW, chriss and heavyc tell me about the importance of recovery. I have two Metolius Rock Rings screwed into the joists in my basement. I do campus laps up and down these to get tired and then I go for enduro by stepping on a stool so that my body angles out simulating an overhang. I get on the smallest holds and switch hands until they are both tired. Then I get on the next smallest holds and recover, then I get back on the smallest holds and tire out and I go back to the next smallest to recover. I throw a lap or two in there (no campus, feet on stool) with breathing control. I am responding to my body, but i also have a timer with a second indicator to keep myself honest and track my progress. I am doing sets of ~8 min on with this simple device. I am definitely getting stronger without much risk of injury. This is my device for praxis in the absence of gym or rock (no access due to my schedule or holiday closing).

[512OW]

Sounds like a pretty good system, caribe. You could also build a box or something and screw small, slippery feet onto it, and learn to use those instead of a stool. Force you to learn to trust your feet...