RRC Archives

So I start this topic an you people seem to be pyschoanalyzing me. What the hell gives?

My only breakthrough occured when I made the distinction that climbing in the gym is not climbing at all... but training. I'm in the gym twice a week, but I spend MAYBE 10 days a year in the gym trying any single pitch that is hard for me. More often than not, I'm running a million laps, doing 4x4's, or trying 2-6 move problems that shut me down. That, and I'm learning to project while outside.... I think when I'm finally comfortable in the time consuming project process, I'll see another "breakthrough" of sorts.

Basically... work your weaknesses until they're your strengths. You'll make major gains...

It is difficult to go there with the social scene in the gym but I have been moving in that direction in the past month.

Be the ball

if you want to train at the gym together let me know. I went last night and couldn't believe how hard it was. im evidently out of shape.

I have said it before, but I had an epiphany, not so much a breakthrough, when I realized resting to work ratio of 3-4:1 with some of that rest what SSS calls active resting- light resistance aerobic exercise.
To that end rowing is the epiphany. Rowing machine is light resistance high repetition running for the arms. It extends the ability of the cardio vascular system to withstand more and more work.
never get pumped again.

I'm a pussy, I freak out at the most irrational time when I'm On a rope. It sucks because it was not always this way and in some cases it does not bother me. Take yesterday for instance.
I was working in the brown theater in Louisville and I had to cross a span using a lashed togather extension ladder. walked right across it with out a thought. Seems to me that should freak me out more than leading a well protected route!

With that said my best breakthroughs are when I reach my limit and my whole being screams run away, I keep moving. Sure it may take me 15 in to crawl my ass out of a slot or over a roof but when I useually do push past that wall I get a better feeling than I did ever sending 11's and 12's.

My secondary goal is to send hard, my first goal is to never stop putting myself into that severe discomfort zone. With that everything else will come. besides as long as we are outside who cares?

I guess I'm still waiting to be born again

Some douchbag did say to me recently "looks like you stopped climbing just long enough to forget you suck" Puts it all into prespective.

the lurkist wrote:I have said it before, but I had an epiphany, not so much a breakthrough, when I realized resting to work ratio of 3-4:1 with some of that rest what SSS calls active resting- light resistance aerobic exercise.
To that end rowing is the epiphany. Rowing machine is light resistance high repetition running for the arms. It extends the ability of the cardio vascular system to withstand more and more work.
never get pumped again.

Lurkist, you can't get pumped if you never climb!

caribe, How much of your ego/current grade are you willing to give up to get better? The best way to improve is to "embrace the suck" and start leading routes that you have no chance of doing, but, that will force you to get strong. If you are projecting/sending easy 12's, then start working on hard 12's/easy 13's. Prepare to get shut down always, but after a few months, you will be amazed at how much stronger you will be. You can't just do it every once in a while, it has to become to be the norm for you climbing day.

Wes that's a nice idea. I know that I set out to project a climb that was well above my level. It took many many days, but by the time I sent, I was definitely a stronger climber for it. I guess the trick is finding the right level of "no chance of doingness."