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Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...

You approach the crux on a climb at your limit. what would be your LEAST favorite hold/position to encounter at the crux?

Sloper
34
34%
Tiny crimp
11
11%
shallow two finger pocket
17
17%
finger crack
3
3%
hand crack
3
3%
massive dyno
26
26%
any hold at the red in this humidity sucks.
7
7%
 
Total votes: 101

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tutugirl
Posts: 407
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 12:43 am

Post by tutugirl »

I also think a massive Dyno...if Andrew has to dyno I know I don't have a chance in hell and I "heard" his new 13 requires a massive Dyno :(
Margarita
The difference between bravery and stupidity is the outcome.
Brentucky
Posts: 869
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:04 am

Post by Brentucky »

yeah, for another opinion from gumbyland those slopers really get to me. i just suck at them and lose confidence really quick when i come up on them. with a crimp or something i KNOW when i'm gonna fall or not; with a sloper (foot or hand) it's pretty much up to the rock gods and humidity if it's gonna go or not.
efil lanrete... i enjoy the sound, but in truth i find this seductively backward idea to be quite frightening
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

I love the slopers! Crimps not so much. Pockets are OK, and cracks are usually workwithable in one way or another. Dyno's are fun as long as the fall is clean, though I am not all that great at them.

And watching Paul work his pocket problem at the gym used to make me cringe at the expected sound of his tendons popping. But, they never did.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
trog
Posts: 181
Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:56 am

Post by trog »

I'll go for the pockets as my weakest link, all because of too few hours on the fingerboard

ahh the gumby life...
ancient gumby,
whatsa gumby?
TankAzz
Posts: 600
Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2006 8:13 pm

Post by TankAzz »

512OW wrote:Its funny to me that people think "hand crack = easy". Apparently you all need to try harder hand cracks. If 5.12 is at your limit, can you still get "sweet relief" on a 5.12 handcrack? Doubt it.
i can't get sweet relief on any handcrack, 5.4 or 5.12. just never been able to figure it out, and it's much more defeating to have everyone bitch and moan at you because you can't sink the "perfect" crack. i'd rather have the "crimp" that most likely does not feel as small to my fingers..
along with that, i would have said "massive dyno," but often there is a way to use intermediates unseen to the naked eye, if you like small holds (although i guess that dodges the question about a "crux," since i assume the Q applies to a situation in which there is absolutely no other way around it than to absolutely dyno)
Courtesy of Andrew: "I don't think you will damage your escort unless she trips because she is so strung out on blow. Most people just take them to the rest area."
Myke Dronez
Posts: 463
Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 2:52 am

Post by Myke Dronez »

Where is the option for heinous peench? Does everyone here have lobster claws?
The only escape is up.
512OW
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

Myke Dronez wrote:Where is the option for heinous peench? Does everyone here have lobster claws?


Werd. Nearly every "pocket" in the Red is actually a pinch...
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
Brentucky
Posts: 869
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:04 am

Post by Brentucky »

Myke Dronez wrote:Where is the option for heinous peench? Does everyone here have lobster claws?
ya just gotta PEEENCH it harder you weak ass! :lol:

on the positive side you got 512OW responding to your quotes. you're movin on up man; just don't leave my ass completely in the dust please! :lol:
efil lanrete... i enjoy the sound, but in truth i find this seductively backward idea to be quite frightening
BMT
Posts: 31
Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2008 10:05 am

Post by BMT »

shallow two finger pocket: Hen-ry you suck
512OW
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

Theres a pocket on Hen-ry? I didn't use it.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
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