RRC Archives

I wanna be a junkie when I grow up

ahab wrote:

wolfman wrote:I would just like to climb solid 11 in good style. That is all I ever really want to achieve. I have no desire to do anything super hard, but I really would like to feel comfortable walking up to a classic trad line and being able to relax on it and enjoy the scenery, movement, etc.

this is a good point, and not just concerning trad. i mean, which would you rather be able to do: flail all over a hard line like a retarded baboon, or cruise up a more moderate climb like it was 2nd nature. i would opt for the latter.

That is all well and good, but just think how much easier and *fun* those 11's are when you are a 5.13 climber. These two goals are not mutually exclusive, not even close. Because, generally, if you want to be able to onsite, with ease and comfort, 11's, then you are at the 5.12 redpoint level. You can always cruise routes that are a few grades below your max, so why not be strong, so that you have more options? There are long, fun hard routes as well...

word

wes, you of course are right, but i suck and need an excuse to justify not getting on harder routes.
*que mad tv 'lowered expectations' intro*

That's true but some balance is good too. If you stay too focused on just reaching some futuristic goal you might miss some of the *fun*. I'm all for staying in shape and pushing yourself but for me it's all about the route I'm currently on, not some harder route I may do in the future. Goals are great because they help people stay motivated, but don't forget to stop and smell the poison ivy.

I agree. You have to climb hard(er) to cruise the easier routes.

My original goal was 12a. Made it and then got a 12b before the body started breaking down from age and abuse. Once I thought I might like to try and make it to a 13, but genetics say otherwise. But, after rehabbing (and getting somewhat wiser about my training) I can still flail on 12a's, have sent a few harder (to me) 11s, and can cruise some easier 11s and 10s (which is way cool, again, to me).

Then the best thing I did was to start picking up some trad. I'm still sketched out some on lead, but seconding is awesome. Very different mindset. It's a whole new world...

Second goal will have to be a .10 trad line so that the .7s and .8s feel cruisable.

Its funny how we all kinda go on the roller coaster ride of cruising hard grades...then havin to try really hard on the easy ones depending on where we are in life....Thats the beauty of climbing tho, you can tailor it to whatever you want to do. I think that is what makes it such a life long activity.

fun is the goal. i feel that the true "test" of the fun-vs.-number climbers is in time. as you call it pig ass, "hiding" behind fun is to validate your suck ass. but i see climbing as a life-long journey that will continue to progress. the numbers, the moves, the strngths may all be lost to time but the FUN i have/had with all of the people in my climbing life will never go away.
i think those that just chase the numbers will be let down sooner or later. that or they'll have kids and then try to be like all the little league fuckstick parents who want to "live" through their kids. i'll punch their kids as well.

see, can't we all see anti is having the most 'fun".....sounds like it has helped your anger managment issues at least

oh i'm still "angry"

i don't really care(within limits) what others do because i will continue to be me. i wil stand up for what i believe, the same as others. i will bend but not bow down to things. and i will enjoy my life while still, (hopefully) allowing others to enjoy theirs.

as long as they don't trash my fun areas with garbage, tickmarks, ass-hat dogs, etc....