RRC Archives

Andrew wrote:You are wrong, the crux on hardcore is hard if your extra tall. Height and climbing is like a bell curve. Extra hard if you are very short and extra hard if you are very tall 6'6" or more.

oh yeah, i was assuming that the crux was at the bottom. I guess you rangy folk would say the crux is at the top.

No, the bottom crux is hard if you are really, really, tall. I am really really tall, I also consistantly boulder V7, and it still felt hard. The feet are super super scrunched.

Do I need to say anything else twice so that your small brain can understand.

no no, I suppose the lanky awkward ascent could be challenging too, but I don't believe it could be as bad as the short person smear. Still a V0, still a V0.

But when your butt is 7 feet away from the wall you really have to pull hard.

Truth.

I have a buddy that at every opportunity will bypass a crux and claim the redpoint. Typically she gets someone to put a long draw on the crux bolt so it can be clipped from down low, then traverse rt or left, go up, then traverse back.

She claims she is just being smarter. And I don't care. I don't care b/c I like the way I climb the routes and enjoy attacking cruxes head on! I don't care b/c she enjoys climbing that way. I don't care when we each tell someone we redpointed the route, and they think we climb the same grade. I don't care that she is more concerned about grades than I am.

I care that we can climb together and enjoy eachothers company, irregardless of eachothers motivations and methods for getting to the anchor.

haha julie, i had SOMEone freak on me for trying to stem at the anchors on up yonder. prolly the same person.

Horatio Felacio wrote:-calm like a bomb - i just noticed a bunch of chalked up holds that traverse about 15-20 feet right before the crux to what looks like some big jugs.

If you are talking about what I thought was the crux there is a no hands rest you can get by simply rocking over on your left foot, and standing up. No need to traverse 15-20.

I don't agree with the within-6-feet-of-the-bolts rule. If you start where the route starts and end where it ends, you can traverse all you want, clip whatever bolts on whatever routes you want and I'll give it to you. Example: Revival. Grab the horizontal under the roof, traverse to Blade Runner climb the crack, clip the anchors then traverse the slab back to Revival and downclimb to the anchors if necessary. These are the ethics my brit friend taught me and he sent tons of hard shit. Double ropes help.

Not taking the no hands on Calm Like A Bomb is just about exactly like robbing a bank and opening the safe that says "Spare Change" instead of the safe that says "Million Dollar Bills". It's also exactly like hitting yourself in the head with a hammer instead of getting a free massage. It's also very much like having a brain the size of a fucking peanut instead of a brain the size of Texas. The same goes for the gigantic Florida sized ledge on Paradise Lost. Oh yea, it's almost the same thing as going to a job interview and getting an offer for $100,000,000 but saying you'll take the job for $100.00.