Page 29 of 56

Re: PDs at Lode

Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2011 2:10 pm
by SCIN
Dude, you should've called me. I could have saved you 2 hours of your life. Attending a meeting about why those guys stripped draws is like attending a meeting at which Jeffrey Dahmer tries to explain why he liked to chop men into pieces and eat them. There is no good explanation so there should be no attendees at the meeting.

Re: PDs at Lode

Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2011 3:52 pm
by the lurkist
We could have used your input.

Re: PDs at Lode

Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2011 8:44 pm
by dssclimb
Wish I could have been there.

Maintenance and sustainability are my two concerns for the permadraws. I'm tired of getting on routes and there being 50% or more of the gear being unsafe or at least hard on your rope. Then I feel obligated to replace the gear and spend fifty or so dollars to get it in shape. The steel draws are lasting longer but are still going to have to be replaced quite often on busy routes. Do we really want to buy new steel biners for chainsaw every year or two? A handful of super difficult to clean routes with fixed gear would be sustainable, but lately the pd's have gotten out of control. Does Burlier's Bane really need pd's? I just want everybody to understand the way we've been headed with everything fixed we are looking at huge costs of maintenace of the pd's. That's money I'd rather be spending on getting more cliffs open( which is the best way to handle the crowds). Also we haven't been doing a good job of maintaining bolts and anchors how are we going to ad a 1000 pd's to that equation. So we need to figure out what pd's are necessary and sustainable and come up with a system for maintaining them. And if you've never bought draws or biners to replace worn gear then you have no dog in this fight.

My two cents anyway,
Dave Scott

Re: PDs at Lode

Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2011 9:25 pm
by @@@
So what percentage of the draws stripped were actually in need of replacement?

Re: PDs at Lode

Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 12:47 am
by SCIN
the lurkist wrote:We could have used your input.
Yea would've loved to have been there but I decided it was a better use of my time to watch Jersey Shore. I learned a lot more too. Sorry I missed it.

Re: PDs at Lode

Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:02 am
by clif
yeah, i particularly liked this part-

"Basically, Situationism is cultural Marxism on acid....The Situationists did not talk much about an alternative world, an authentic universe outside the nightmare of the Spectacle..

..Debord’s bête noire is the commodity, which he regards as a demonic force that has literally taken over the world. “The fetishism of commodities generates its own moments of fervent exaltation,” he writes. “All this is useful for only one purpose: producing habitual submission."

'That playfulness should be the most lasting legacy of the Situationists is ironic, for it’s hard to imagine anything less playful than “The Society of the Spectacle”'

[excerpted from Salon.com]

Re: PDs at Lode

Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:05 am
by pigsteak
SCIN wrote:
the lurkist wrote:We could have used your input.
Yea would've loved to have been there but I decided it was a better use of my time to watch Jersey Shore. I learned a lot more too. Sorry I missed it.
is this the elitist attitude of which Artsay speaks?

Re: PDs at Lode

Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:06 am
by pigsteak
btw, I missed it to...stuck at Hilltop Pizza trying to grab some grub.....

Re: PDs at Lode

Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:13 am
by SCIN
I hear the KKK meeting and the witch burning rally were scheduled at the same time so turnput was low.

Re: PDs at Lode

Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:27 am
by SCIN
dssclimb wrote:Wish I could have been there.

Maintenance and sustainability are my two concerns for the permadraws. I'm tired of getting on routes and there being 50% or more of the gear being unsafe or at least hard on your rope. Then I feel obligated to replace the gear and spend fifty or so dollars to get it in shape. The steel draws are lasting longer but are still going to have to be replaced quite often on busy routes. Do we really want to buy new steel biners for chainsaw every year or two? A handful of super difficult to clean routes with fixed gear would be sustainable, but lately the pd's have gotten out of control. Does Burlier's Bane really need pd's? I just want everybody to understand the way we've been headed with everything fixed we are looking at huge costs of maintenace of the pd's. That's money I'd rather be spending on getting more cliffs open( which is the best way to handle the crowds). Also we haven't been doing a good job of maintaining bolts and anchors how are we going to ad a 1000 pd's to that equation. So we need to figure out what pd's are necessary and sustainable and come up with a system for maintaining them. And if you've never bought draws or biners to replace worn gear then you have no dog in this fight.

My two cents anyway,
Dave Scott
Thanks for looking after me, Dad. Are you gonna take my car keys away if I drive with a buzz too?
Dave i used to think you were the smartest man in Lexington but now I'm not so sure.