rjackson wrote:And since I followed Art up Frenchburg, I need to get back on that also. So anytime anyone wants to go...
Dude, I'll second that with you anytime. I owe you. I am also thinking about 'what's left'. I would like to lead it and definitely would do if you pulled out the IOU.
I got Dreamscape (awesome 11 c/d sport route), but for a trad spray, I also got Golden Locks (8+) which has intimidated the crap out of me for years b/c I couldn't hand jam. I wish I didn't have such a huge gap in my trad and sport send grades.
went out for a chilly day sunday climbing the wyde. started at the car at 10:30am around 28 F. there was about 2" of snow in the shade and melting ice was dripping from the trees. hiked up to muscle beach as the sun went behind some diffuse clouds. high for the day was apparently 38 F with a 14 mph wind... the sun never came back out. we made the best of it and i went for my 2nd lead attempt on muscle shoals. all i have to say is old #5's, though they look similar to new #6's, really don't do the trick. i got up with one take to rest my shoulder and ankle. we then proceeded to "family style" that crack for a number of TR laps, our other objectives for the day were mostly shaded or entirely shaded by the time we got to them. found some key hidden holds, and a little bit of beta, to unlock the magic of this 8+... will go next time, and i'll feel better with a #6. two days later my shoulder still hurts!
