Spraylord Wanted

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 12:24 am

lmao....our secret is now out....

anti, come out and play.....

Post by **pawilkes** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 12:47 am

If you're going to Practice Wall for some reason, get on Night Foxx. It's a pretty sweet line, really unique rock. The plates that suggest good incut crimps and jugs turn out to have only tiny crimps on them and require some good footwork. The far left and far right project look pretty cool too. I didn't get a chance to get on the new 11b but it does have anchors on the ledge, we thought it might be a mixed route and go up the beautiful dihedral above.

Post by **Brentucky** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 1:36 am

Caribe victory cried so loud today that I thought my eardrum had split for a brief second. Then he came down from his proud send and proceeded to give me a hug while I sneaked in an ass-grab that he hardly noticed because he was so elated. He was cheesing so hard the rest of the day I thought I might have to go home and kill myself immediately after making myself vomit.

Seriously though, after climbing Ro Shampo with half a monkey brain and bent arms and intense rapid fired breathing on the first couple attempts he crushed it in strong style on the 3rd! Nice work brah, fo real tho!

Post by **pawilkes** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 1:52 am

Did Art do the last move(s) and get to the hold above the anchors or just clip them from below? i admit that I cheated the finish move by clipping lows when i finally "redpointed" Ro. I went back months later and sent it properly, hanging the draws and doing the finishing move

Post by **Brentucky** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 2:10 am

Art did it proper, sort of... he clipped the chains from the nice arm bar. However, after a small amount of heckling from below on his "solid 11d send brah" (the same that I myself did), he proceeded to stick the last move and THEN busted my eardrums with his victory cry. I'm pretty sure he was gonna do the last move no matter what, I just enjoy heckling as I'm sure many can attest to.

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 2:15 am

any other 11's out there you need to go back and do "properly" pawilkes? just curious.

Post by **rjackson** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 3:06 am

Awesome Art! Very nice indeed.

So what took you so long?! I never knew, figured you sent it long ago.

Post by **pawilkes** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:23 am

pigsteak wrote:any other 11's out there you need to go back and do "properly" pawilkes? just curious.

yes, two of them. although i'll probably only resend one

Post by **caribe** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 5:10 pm

rjackson wrote:Awesome Art! what took you so long?!

I don't know; I guess that I am lame. I got on it now and then, but never really bullied it into submission. There are a few other routes out there that have stayed on my to-do list too long.
I stuck the last move and then went on rope but I clipped all three B4 the last move. It is almost silly not to clip them when you are at that ultra bomber hold under the chains. Perhaps for more fun the chains could be raised. It doesn't matter . . . I love the route.