Actually, with proper training (aka knowledge), and given the state of those anchors, rapping off them is safer than being lowered. If you were using sarcasm as a method of humor delivery, please note it with asterisks or other. Otherwise, the gumbys on this forum may take those type of comments as fact.dbrayack wrote:There's no way the Rapelling from anchors is a good idea - its not only more dangerous, but its impossible to clean....besides, rings are SUPER cheap....caribe wrote:Yeah, these are all good reasons to rap from the anchors instead of being belayed or any other method of lower that causes the rope to run across the metal under weight. -SiO2- particles on dirty ropes saw through Al pretty quick.Paul wrote: yeah, he definitely works his ass off for that place. good thing he does, too. take a look at some of the anchor sets he pulled off last year.
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... ic_id=2042
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... ic_id=2041
Trusting Pre-placed Draws
"My Shit is Fucked Up." --Warren Zevon and Terry Kindred.
I'm serious - when you lower, your belayer can control your speed while you clean...and you can use both hands to remove a difficult draw...I cleaned "rock wars" a few weeks ago, had to take both hands off to pull over the crack, (had my buddy fireman me) - but it was a major pain in the butt....rockman wrote:Actually, with proper training (aka knowledge), and given the state of those anchors, rapping off them is safer than being lowered. If you were using sarcasm as a method of humor delivery, please note it with asterisks or other. Otherwise, the gumbys on this forum may take those type of comments as fact.dbrayack wrote:There's no way the Rapelling from anchors is a good idea - its not only more dangerous, but its impossible to clean....besides, rings are SUPER cheap....caribe wrote:
Yeah, these are all good reasons to rap from the anchors instead of being belayed or any other method of lower that causes the rope to run across the metal under weight. -SiO2- particles on dirty ropes saw through Al pretty quick.
www.brayackmedia.com
Yeah, freaky stuff, check it out here, with lots of discussion: http://8a.nu/ its from last weds (16th).Andrew wrote:
Did any one here about the brand new draw that broke on one of the 8a.nu editors. He almost decked.
The guy said it was basically brand new! I've always felt petzl spirit were the best money could buy.
all you haters die slow.
It just drives me crazy that people are so adament about it -bcombs wrote:You are right most people don't rappell and most of the time its easier to clean when being lowered. I was just offering a hands free rappelling method. Also, I doubt we needed another poll to cover this subject.
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Here's a novel idea, why not have your buddy clean "Rock Wars" on second and then rappel? Call me a crusty old timer but I can't believe I am hearing somebody talking about cleaning a trad route like it was a sport route. What is the problem here, are you so desperate for partners that you are scrounging gumbies for a belay thus the need to clean while lowering? Get your partner to clean or give it a TR burn and clean on the way up.dbrayack wrote:I cleaned "rock wars" a few weeks ago, had to take both hands off to pull over the crack, (had my buddy fireman me) - but it was a major pain in the butt....
While lowering off ring anchors is a lesser evil, most anchors in the Red do not have rings. IMO if the anchor setup is chains w/quicklinks (more comom in the Red) you need to rap after cleaning.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
heh.. fancy that..dbrayack wrote:It just drives me crazy that people are so adament about it -
i always knew i could do the impossible - i clean while rapping every weekend.dbrayack wrote:There's no way the Rapelling from anchors is a good idea - its not only more dangerous, but its impossible to clean....besides, rings are SUPER cheap....
cheap.. like time is cheap? if it was a matter of simple money, it wouldn't be a huge problem. but do you have a drill? how many people do? and even then, are you going to take a weekend to replace stuff if you're driving five hours each way? probably not. and team suck has been pretty damn busy any more. has anyone really stepped up in their place to do the replacements like they've done in the past?
this was one of the more selfish posts i've seen in a while. maybe i need to read more threads, though..
here's a thought, maybe a crazy one but i think i'll throw it out there to see if it flies.. rapping is best when it's slab to slightly overhanging. lowering is best for overhung routes. if you struggle that much with rapping, you probably shouldn't be climbing.. at least not near me.
before you act, think. simple as that.
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins