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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:34 pm
by ahab
when you are not sure if you are climbing slab, use this simple formula:
plus
divided by
equals
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:34 pm
by krampus
I will go ahead and redefine my definition, which still holds true, but may also be stated as such:
any rout that hard climbers tell me is stout for the grade at the red (aka- the non jug haul routs)
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:46 pm
by kirker
OW refering to those particular routes as edging routes is no different than calling the steep shit jug haul routes.
Is everyone else as board as I am right now?
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:34 pm
by Wes
Under vert is a slab.
vert to slightly over hanging is edging / technical
Steep gets started right around were you need to turn around and put your back to the wall and look out to belay.
Example:
That's what she said = slab
Soul Ram = edging route.
Up yonder = steep.
All else is just shades of gray...
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 6:34 am
by L K Day
But most of all it's the form. The term "slab" suggest an architectural element. Slab routes are, uh, slabby. So it has to lie, more or less, in a single plane. Even low angle faces are generally not called slabs when they are composed of a confusing jumble of intersecting surfaces. Furthermore, the intersection of two slabs can form a ridge or an arete. A line that ascends the resultant feature would rarely be referred to as a slab route, even if the moves are pure friction.
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 8:10 am
by TradMike
Ever climb an edgy slab route or a slabby edge route?
If you pull a roof on a slab climb is it still a slab climb? Or do you have a slaroof?
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 8:14 am
by 512OW
I've seen a roof on a friction slab in Vedauwoo... but it was 13d so I can't begin to imagine how to do it...
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 8:44 am
by Brentucky
all i know is when my partner cough: krampus cough: is telling me over and over to just stand up on it i'm probably on slab with nothing to stand on. I LOVE IT!
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Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 2:14 pm
by trog
where is OW's input here?
I'd like to hear how he edges a slab
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 2:29 pm
by JR
Is Edging the same as Slab climbing?
To me what you are asking is, what is the foot technique used?
I say slab climbing but I guess I mean "smearing with your feet". Climbing that doesn't consist of well formed holds, typicaly low angle. I have always maintained that Super Slab was wrongfully named. Because it isn't slab climbing it is "edge" or face climbing
I would also say edging routes(or a face climb) to mean a low angled or vert climb that has holds to stand on albeit small.
Technically, I am sure these are misnomers.