Edging vs. Slab

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...

Is Edging the same as Slab climbing?

Yes
2
3%
No
45
58%
Huh?
6
8%
Maybe
4
5%
Not Sure
1
1%
Please shake the magic 8 ball again
19
25%
 
Total votes: 77

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ahab
Posts: 1024
Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2007 5:36 pm

Post by ahab »

when you are not sure if you are climbing slab, use this simple formula:

Image

plus

Image

divided by

Image

equals

Image
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krampus
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Post by krampus »

I will go ahead and redefine my definition, which still holds true, but may also be stated as such:
any rout that hard climbers tell me is stout for the grade at the red (aka- the non jug haul routs)
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
kirker
Posts: 495
Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2004 12:05 pm

Post by kirker »

OW refering to those particular routes as edging routes is no different than calling the steep shit jug haul routes.

Is everyone else as board as I am right now?
Wes
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Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Under vert is a slab.
vert to slightly over hanging is edging / technical
Steep gets started right around were you need to turn around and put your back to the wall and look out to belay.
Example:
That's what she said = slab
Soul Ram = edging route.
Up yonder = steep.

All else is just shades of gray...
Last edited by Wes on Fri Apr 11, 2008 9:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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L K Day
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Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2004 6:29 am

Post by L K Day »

But most of all it's the form. The term "slab" suggest an architectural element. Slab routes are, uh, slabby. So it has to lie, more or less, in a single plane. Even low angle faces are generally not called slabs when they are composed of a confusing jumble of intersecting surfaces. Furthermore, the intersection of two slabs can form a ridge or an arete. A line that ascends the resultant feature would rarely be referred to as a slab route, even if the moves are pure friction.
TradMike
Posts: 1173
Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am

Post by TradMike »

Ever climb an edgy slab route or a slabby edge route?

If you pull a roof on a slab climb is it still a slab climb? Or do you have a slaroof?
512OW
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

I've seen a roof on a friction slab in Vedauwoo... but it was 13d so I can't begin to imagine how to do it...
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Brentucky
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:04 am

Post by Brentucky »

all i know is when my partner cough: krampus cough: is telling me over and over to just stand up on it i'm probably on slab with nothing to stand on. I LOVE IT! :)
efil lanrete... i enjoy the sound, but in truth i find this seductively backward idea to be quite frightening
trog
Posts: 181
Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:56 am

Post by trog »

where is OW's input here?
I'd like to hear how he edges a slab
ancient gumby,
whatsa gumby?
JR
Posts: 1128
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:18 pm

Post by JR »

Is Edging the same as Slab climbing?

To me what you are asking is, what is the foot technique used?

I say slab climbing but I guess I mean "smearing with your feet". Climbing that doesn't consist of well formed holds, typicaly low angle. I have always maintained that Super Slab was wrongfully named. Because it isn't slab climbing it is "edge" or face climbing

I would also say edging routes(or a face climb) to mean a low angled or vert climb that has holds to stand on albeit small.

Technically, I am sure these are misnomers.
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