RRC Archives

Myke Dronez wrote:Oh brother. 90 pages of bolt testing analysis? Coming from the guy who loves old rusty bolts and has rack that is literally a 'history of active protection'? We really do need to get out more.

You don't know the half of it--I just got some "new" gear:



I can't wait to see you lead 11 on Titons....

Link to web page on ancient gear that I stole the image from:

http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/nutsstory.htm

More of the same:

http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/ ... tories.htm

More than you ever really wanted to know about dynamic climbing ropes:

http://www.alaskamountaineering.com/Inf ... &c=219&s=0

A simple visual explanation of basic UIAA rope testing:

http://www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/cert ... cRopes.pdf

I think I first started to obsess about learning to do one-arm chins when I saw ashtray rip off 3 of them (I still can't do even one.). I'm not sure being able to do them will make you a better climber, but he certainly does ok...anyway, training for one-arm's is <i>dangerous</i> like climbing, but if you want to work on them anyway:

http://www.dragondoor.com/cgi-bin/artic ... icleid=232

And, even though it's not really a resource in the same way most of the stuff I've posted is, I have to link to his article about a <b>blind</b> climber because it completely blew me away:

http://discovermagazine.com/2008/jul/23 ... his-tongue

As the main climbing season here reaches full swing, a bunch of links about climbing injuries seems like a good idea. *grin*

If you google "climbing injuries" and the like, you mostly find a bunch of medical abstracts that ask you to pay for a PDF (lurk probably already has them all)...here are some of the better links I've found that include <i>real</i>, <i>useful</i> information, including a site called, "climbing injuries.com":

http://climbinginjuries.com/

http://www.davemacleod.com/articles/cli ... uries.html

http://www.jsinsurance.co.uk/travel_ins ... uries.html

http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/tr ... htm#taping

http://www.physsportsmed.com/issues/199 ... jebson.htm

http://www.dizzy-heights.co.uk/tendons.html

For the more medically oriented:

http://www.climbing.com.au/science/injured.pdf

http://radiology.rsnajnls.org/cgi/reprint/222/3/755.pdf

http://www.carj.ca/issues/2007-Apr/118/118.pdf

WHEW! That ought to be enough (for now)...I do have a moral dilemma, though--I have a PDF about the most effective way to tape for pulley/bowstringing injuries which expressly says not to post it to listservs. Do I go for the greater good of helping people by posting it and thereby violate copyright laws?

While not really a climbing resource, per se, gasbuddy.com should be useful when the gas prices go up again--especially to people who are traveling a long way, and want to know where the best refueling stops will be.

Here's a link to the Clay City map, where gas was $1.79.9 at one station when I posted this, and 10 cents higher just a few feet down the road:

http://www.gasbuddy.com/GB_Map_Gas_Pric ... ft=A&tl=48