RRC Archives

If the two are closer together, are you really a better climber or simply changed focus?

krampus wrote: there are some that are afraid to progress, and therefore never really project anything over their current limit.

I am not sure if it is fear based but I am sure there are plenty of climbers that have never even tried to Redpoint a route(giveing it a second try after a failed onsight attempt)

rjackson wrote:If the two are closer together, are you really a better climber or simply changed focus?

Comparing RP vs OS is another attempt to quantify climbing so we might better understand our weaknesses or strengths.

For example...

If in the same month of climbing you are able to redpoint Stay the Hand (12a) after 5 attempt but fell onsighting/warming up on A.W.O.L. (10.a).

This might indicate that you are lacking in what Eric Horst calls engrams.

On the other hand...

If in the same month you Onsight Manifest Destiny (12a MV) and then you got your ass handed to you on Too Many Puppies (12a).

This might indicate what I would call grade mooshieness and really has nothing to do with the comparison between RP and OS.

JR wrote:Is it harder to onsight limestone because it is harder to see the chalk?

I think that has something to do with it for sure. The tick marks and chalk on the holds at the Red are very visible so onsiting is usually not too much different. Limestone tends to be more sequential than sandstone though since there are usually less holds and they must be held just right.

JR wrote:I am not sure if it is fear based but I am sure there are plenty of climbers that have never even tried to Redpoint a route(giveing it a second try after a failed onsight attempt)

I suppose fear is not the right word, but personally I can syke myself out by thinking a climb is out of my league, failing before I even begin

krampus, please stop fearing progression and just go jump on a 13 already. you've onsighted 12a so you MUST do it to be an all-around good climber. just be sure and wait until i'm there to see it; i'm gonna bring my camera!

actually i'm just kidding... you know you're my current idol until i get better than you!

once again, wtf is mr green?

I flashed my hardest route ever, and onsited several at one letter easier...

Routes at the red are MUCh easier to onsite than at the NRG - mainly because the red retains its chalk - at the New, every time it rains, all the chalk is gone; often you have trouble finding holds.

Thanks tucky, its nice to not have to do my own spraying. Though that onsite was super soft.

Routes at the red are MUCh easier to onsite than at the NRG - mainly because the red retains its chalk

The problem in the red, when you're trying to onsite, is often that there are too damn many chalked holds to sort through with the pump clock ticking. As Porter used to say "whichun should ah grab". There are many sucker holds. I think the difference for most folks between os and rp is about one number grade.

Lander wrote:

Routes at the red are MUCh easier to onsite than at the NRG - mainly because the red retains its chalk

The problem in the red, when you're trying to onsite, is often that there are too damn many chalked holds to sort through with the pump clock ticking. As Porter used to say "whichun should ah grab". There are many sucker holds. I think the difference for most folks between os and rp is about one number grade.

But really, I'd rather see "sucker holds" and take my chance dabbling like hit one - nope, hit another - good enough, then looking up and not know where to go like I blew the onsite on Go Easy Billy Clyde because I didn't know where to go - no chalk - I missed a bunch of good holds - but say, Gung Hoe - its pretty obvious, lots of chalk/ticks you can see the holds from the ground...

I'm just generally speaking of course.