Mt Baker & WA glacier slogs

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
mystickana
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:44 pm

Rainier

Post by mystickana »

I am still a little up in the air about when exactly, obviously making sure I can get the conditioning in and the finances together are the determining factors. I figure its about a $6000 trip by the time I get the gear that I dont have and travel and the fees to RMI. I would really like to do it this summer, but I am not sure if I can get conditioned adequately if I plan to do it before the end of July. I will give it some thought though. Heres the link to the trip I was considering. Take a look. I was looking at going the end of July.
http://www.rmiguides.com/rainier/summit ... _5day.html
From what I have read it is doable for someone without Alpine experience, on this assent route anyhow. Let me know what you think. I can not go do the hiking on Memorial Day weekend, the other date might work for me though.... I have to plan way ahead as I have a daughter that I have to make arrangements for. My business is booming Memorial Day weekend so thats not an option for me.
Chyrl
Out beyond ideas of right doing and wrong doing there is a field. I will meet you there.
Rumi
Steve B
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2007 11:05 pm

Post by Steve B »

Not having the gear will drastically inflate the cost of the trip. No doubt there. I have been backpacking the smokies in the winter for over 10 years, so I'm pretty much set up except ice ax, plastic boots and crampons, all of which i will be renting out there.

I stay reasonably fit year round, but I have already began mountaineering specific training for the expected June trip. I am definatly going to WA to climb a mountain this year. It's just a matter of which week and which mountain. :D I am pretty much OCD about it now.

I need to go in June for the most part. I could go the first week of July, but I think most every mountain out there will be crowded (even worse) that week due to the holiday.

One thing to think about, these trips selll out. Some of those Rainier trips are already sold out for this year. I want to be registered by march or so.
"The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page" - St Augustine
mystickana
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:44 pm

Post by mystickana »

I have quite a lot of gear.... but its gear I have used for backpacking and camping and it is good quality stuff... Mountain Hardware and stuff but I dont know if it is suitable for this kind of climb. I have tent, sleeping bag, pack, harness, most of the clothing... but like I said with the gear I dont know if it is really suitable for this. I guess I am going to call out and talk to one of the guides and tell them what I have and see if they think it will do. I also am reasonably fit, I mean I water ski and wakeboard and work out at the gym reasonably often. But packing a 60lb. pack like that at altitude is totally different as we both know. I really really want to do this.... and I dont give up easy and I am no weenie.... I also dont like to loose or not get my way...LOL so I will probably dig up the funds and get my butt out there and condition like crazy and do it. Give me a week or so and let me evaluate where I stand fitness wise with a good hard backpacking day and I will let you know about going in June instead. June or July is definately the time to go.... less chance of avalanche from what I understand. Better conditions all around. I have to have all the stuff you said too.... did not know you could rent it. Where were you looking at renting stuff from? I mean the crampons, ice ax, and plastic boots alone could run nearly $700 if you buy good stuff.... so if I could rent it could save a bunch.
Out beyond ideas of right doing and wrong doing there is a field. I will meet you there.
Rumi
mystickana
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:44 pm

Rainier

Post by mystickana »

I have actually found a place that you can rent almost anything that you need for the climb. I have no idea why it never occured to me that you could rent some of the gear. That would save a bunch. Rental is a good option.
Out beyond ideas of right doing and wrong doing there is a field. I will meet you there.
Rumi
mystickana
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:44 pm

Rainier

Post by mystickana »

Steve B.

I did a little hiking and I dont necessarily think im too bad...lol but have an off the wall question for you... ever consider doing a climb in Sept? And where exactly can you hike near here to get a good 4 hour plus hike in and gain the most altitude? Thanks
Chyrl
Out beyond ideas of right doing and wrong doing there is a field. I will meet you there.
Rumi
Steve B
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2007 11:05 pm

Post by Steve B »

There is not much elevation anywhere near here. The best bet would be Cumberland Gap National Park near the TN,KY,VA border. There is a trail there that has about 2000' of vertical gain or so. Other than that you are headed to the Smokies or somewhere very near them(possibly further) for any major climbing.

I am not sure of the road miles for you on that one. I wouldnt think it would be much further than Cave run.
The Gap prolly has more sustained climbing than Cave run.
I am pretty much stuck with June this year. If I were to go later, EARLY sep would be the cut off. Actually, that is a better time for CA or CO peaks. I am guessing the Pacific NW to be better earlier in the season.
"The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page" - St Augustine
Giggle
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2002 5:18 am

Post by Giggle »

I live in WA approx 1.5 hours from Mt. Rainier. June-July-Aug are the best months to do anything!
captain static
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Post by captain static »

The AAI program looks like a good one. I would consider such a program of professional instruction mandatory for a beginner interested in climbing glaciered peaks.

As a Buckeye flatlander I have made many ascents to altitude (including Baker & Rainier) without much opportunity to acclimate before the climb. To train for these ascents I generally start at least 3 mos. before the trip with running and swimming to build up cardio. To build leg strength for the ascent I run steps with leg weights and also work hills into my running.

I love the Pacific Northwest for climbing/mountaineering vacations.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
Crankmas
Posts: 3961
Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 5:24 pm

Post by Crankmas »

screw Rainier, you should just go to Fremont and like do the hippie thing
GWG
Posts: 840
Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 1:45 pm

Post by GWG »

I just got back from climbing Aconcagua and have done a few other high altitude peaks. Living in Louisville, and then most recently in eastern PA, there's not much around that will provide for the altitude. I'm allergic to running :lol: so all my cardio training was either done on a stepper, bike, or eliptical machine. The strength training was done with free weights with concentration on the legs and lower back. In my opinion, the best training was actually wearing my pack and hitting the trail, increasing the amount of weight as I progressed in the training.

I'm familiar with the trail in Cumberland Gap. It's called the Misha Mackwa (sp) Trail and is about 20 miles one end to the other. I did most of my training when I lived in Louisville on the Knobstone Trail up near Salem, IN. There's a 12 mile loop there with lots of 200 - 400' elevation gains. What worked for me was to hike for 45 minutes and then rest for about 10. At the top of the hills, keep hiking and concentrate on your breathing to bring it back under control. You'll find that as you progress in your training, you won't have trouble hiking the hills and then continue on once at the top.

Fortunately, I haven't had any problems with AMS. There are 3 things that I do while moving up the mountain which have all contributed to keeping AMS at bay.

1. Pressure breathe: once or twice/minute down low and then more often as you move up the mountain. Higher up, you will be pressure beathing every breath. The breath after you pressure breathe should be a deep, lung filling breath.

2. Eat: Even if you feel nausiated, you will want to eat something. Bring an assortment of different things that taste good to you. If you don't like Power Bars down low, they're not going to taste any better higher up.

3. Drink: We drank six to seven litres of water/Tang higher up the mountain. At every break, we'd drink. Don't let yourself get thirsty. At night, have a litre of water in your sleeping bag and each time you wake up, take a drink.

I used Diamox on Kilimanjaro but did not use it on Aconcagua. I actually felt better without it. I had the opportunity to be climbing with someone who was trained in high altitude medicine and she advised not starting out with it. If there were symptoms, first try breathing and taking a short walk to eliminate the symptoms. Going to diamox was her last resort prior to descent.

Last thing about gear, if your tent is not a 4 season tent, think twice about bringing it. The winds you may encounter will shred a 3 season tent.

Hope this helps.
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