RRC Archives

Ask Team Suck about the support groups they offer. I belong to the Stain, 8-ball, Big Money Grip and Shanghi "can't send because I suck" support groups. Check their web site for meeting times and places.

Piggie... I too disbelieve that we can't just beat a route into the ground and climb any grade

Agreed, but you can get more efficient and that is really important at the Red. Pig, I would stop getting on a route once I'm not inspired anymore. I don't make that knid of decision based on a fixed number of tries

pigsteak wrote:Yasmeen, does that mean you are climbing no where at your potential? didnt' sharma take like 50-75 burns to do realization?

Maybe... I'm not sure. How do you know if you've reached your potential? What's the sound of one hand clapping?

i think that, over the course of many years, i've done probably 60+ burns on injured reserve. it used to go something like this:

lurkist: the lode, let's go to the lode
pete: there's nothing there for me to climb (whining)
lurkist: there's that great 10d slab you like so much (snapper, i never loved it) and there's the warm up wall (making me feel like shit b/c the "warm up wall" was my "maybe someday i'll send it project wall...).
pete: ok, the lode, but i'm not gonna climb (it's all for love)
(later at the cliff) - lurkist hangs the rope on injured reserve, pete struggles through it on TR and curses chris martin for bolting it (yes, it's true...)...

this went on for literally years and finally, what do you know, i was able to climb 5.11 (lame, some folks come out of the gate climbing 5.11, it took me years...) and then:

pete: the lode, i gotta send that route...
lurkist: the lode, really, i knew this day would come... let's go... sweeet...

once i started to "project" the route it went down quickly,

so, over 11 years of climbing, 10 with lurkist, a lot of time spent desperately hanging on a TR at the lode on the (now beloved) warm up wall finally morphed into finally conquering that route...

don't get me started on the "9" and "10" at the hominy hole...

Hominy Hole and projects! Brings back a flood of memories eh Hugh?

Oh the great and mythic Hominy Hole. The Red Headed Step Child.

Group Therapy! Definitely one of the classic 10's in the Midwest, I haven't been on it in years, though... Now that it's (sorta) local I've gotta get the hell back to Jackson!

I thought it went like this

pete:the lode, I gotta send that route.

lurkist: are you kidding me? I can't climb anyhitng at the lode anymore. care to hang a TR for me on injured reserve?

you guys rock, btw...

pigsteak wrote:ow, what woudl be the dif between 50 goes on a project, and 50 goes on the inhibitor?

50 goes on The Inhibitor was for fun, and for training. I don't have fun on "projects". I also don't feel that falling at the same spot over and over is effective training.

Take Stunning The Hog for example. I tried it a few times, realized I needed more power endurance, and rather than beat the route into submission, I went home and trained. I came back a month later and walked it.

My goal is not to send hard routes, but to get stronger. I don't feel that projecting a hard route is making me stronger, its just making me better at that particular route.

not to send hard routes, but to get stronger? isn't that merely a play on words..what's the point of being stronger if you just go send below your current level?