Overcrowding
quiet crags
We had Rival Wall to ourselves all day -- didn't see anyone after we left the parking lot.
I agree, have a back up plan. Back in my gumby days the red didn't the HUGE amount of routes I could climb so when me and my co-gumbies would plan a day we always had to have a back up plan just in case the mr bungle/face up to that crack wall was a zoo. It's the same thing now with 5.11/5.12 climbing, if you get fixed on a route you have to get on then you will be forced to wait. Also get up early or wait until noon when people thin out. Why is this a problem more this year, Roctrip and Rocktober fest has brought a lot of people to the red for the fall season. European climbers are spending their one month holiday at the red this year because its cheaper to travel to the US than ever before, and they have all discovered that the Red is the best sport climbing area in the US.
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
Rhunt:
Thanks for the explanation--that all makes sense. Maybe it's just an unusual combo of things making it way more crowded. I think the best solution would be to just hike to another crag, but I'm half crippled and have a tough time just hiking in and out of one crag per day. I will, however, try the "climbing later in the day" thing as the weather cools off. That just may work!
Thanks for the explanation--that all makes sense. Maybe it's just an unusual combo of things making it way more crowded. I think the best solution would be to just hike to another crag, but I'm half crippled and have a tough time just hiking in and out of one crag per day. I will, however, try the "climbing later in the day" thing as the weather cools off. That just may work!
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
I took out the whole family (dogs, baby, and all) this Sunday. Decided on Pebble Beach since I knew that we would be "that group with the dogs and screaming kid" at any other crag. I forgot how fun and spicy some of the sport and mixed stuff was up there. We ended up having a good day. The only other group in the trash compactor area hopped on our rope on their way out. So, there are places you can go, and there are people willing to get out of your way to let you get some time in.
That being said, don't expect to get on Breakfast Burrito or any other magnet until the second week of December or so. Besides, the dead of winter is the best time anyway.
That being said, don't expect to get on Breakfast Burrito or any other magnet until the second week of December or so. Besides, the dead of winter is the best time anyway.
about the dogs... i was at what about bob wall on saturday...and there were dogs with owners no where around them off leash... if you want your dog off leash... alright...but know where they are...they may get eaten by a mean dog who is on a short leash. That's why the mean dog is leashed up. So it doesn't eat your dog. If your dog goes in too close...and I'm belaying andy and can't get too him... it's gonna get bit.
Last edited by reospeed on Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Yeah - either go early, or stay late. I went out super early on the weekend of UClimb and was able to climb whatever I wanted. It works if you make it.
Either that, or go climbing with Ynot...I think we're the only ones to climb at Hen's Nest, or whatever that was...in the last 4 years.
Either that, or go climbing with Ynot...I think we're the only ones to climb at Hen's Nest, or whatever that was...in the last 4 years.
"I enjoyed a Guinness after I got back home from Palm Sunday Mass." - Captain Static
"Listen, you heard what I said. Do you want me to donate or not charlie. Suck it up and procreate." - Andrew
"Listen, you heard what I said. Do you want me to donate or not charlie. Suck it up and procreate." - Andrew
And when you bring a mean, biting dog to the cliff, do the people with a dog or child a favor and warn them. Better yet, muzzle him. There's no clearer warning than that.reospeed wrote: That's why the mean dog is leashed up. So it doesn't eat your dog. If your dog goes in too close...and I'm belaying andy and can't get too him... it's gonna get bit.