RRC Archives

Wes wrote:
Heh, spoken like a newby tard climber for sure. Maybe once you grow up and get a bit stronger and better you might come to learn that while the red has some pretty good trad lines here and there, it is truly an amazing sport climbing area. People do not come here from around the world to climb at fortress, they come here to sample some of the very best sport climbing anywhere.

just for arguments sake wes. if your climbing at 5.10 and below the reds trad is much better than its sport in its overall quantity and quality.

There seem to be a lot of errors in the guidebook... Pigsteak seems to have a lot more 5.12 ascents than he does on the online spray listings.

O you man of little faith....where have you been when this argument was going on the past 17 years...

let me help you out. FA no longer means "first ascent" at the Red. I know the letters FA may throw you on this one, and the word "first" make actually imply a single person climbing a rock top to bottom no falls...alas, you would be mistaken.

by decree of the local climbing community, once someone puts a bolt in the rock, that person becomes a climbing god who gets to re-arrange and dictate what is and what is not an FA. If my dog River is nice and does not bark while I am bolting, he is on the FA. If a person belays while I TR, they can be on the FA. If my hot girlfriend cheers me on from the ground, they get an FA. If two of my buds try and never send, but I deem their efforts worthy of glory, they too, can be on the FA. Remember, a person does not have to actually touch a route to be on the FA..that is so 1999.

Example: the route to the right of Bathtub Mary. Jared installed the anchors, Rhunt tried the bottom four moves one time (sticking the dyno), and I bolted the rest of it. As far as I know, rhunt has never been more than 10 feet off the ground, and Jared has never been on the route. No worries chieftain, as I decided, in my infinte wisdom, that their contributions were worthy of FA status.

Now , if that hasn't confused you enough, you'll notice that my name is second on the FA. Only the person listed first on a FA has truly climbed the line. After that, more often than not, other folks listed merely pissed and moaned and begged to be included. Hence, since I tend to bolt way over my head, SCIN always goes out in the dark of night and steals my lines. As a peace offering , he promises to repay me for hardware (which he never does), and he "allows" me to be on the FA.

if you are nice and bring me sushi, I might allow you to be on an FA in the future.

BTW, it is all screwed up. On a one pitch sport line, and FA should be one name. period. but who am I to argue with the parties that be.

pigsteak wrote:...If my hot girlfriend cheers me on from the ground, they get an FA...

does your hot wife know about this?!

hehe...i just wanted to get you riled up piggie.

Somewhere else in the guide they listed the guy who bolted the route with some other term right after FA. I can't remember what it was called.

maybe someday I will consummate my FA status on Bullfigher. For now I will continue to bask in the glory of my FA status...that 10 foot boulder problem was hard!

Shamis...
it was called "god's right hand man"

rhunt, you unlocked the secret to the send..all glory is yours.

pigsteak wrote:Shamis...
it was called "god's right hand man"

rhunt, you unlocked the secret to the send..all glory is yours.

no, it was like 'route equipped by someguywhodidntsend'

where's the love brother? your Tuesday night fee has just doubled.

Shamis wrote:

pigsteak wrote:Shamis...
it was called "god's right hand man"

rhunt, you unlocked the secret to the send..all glory is yours.

no, it was like 'route equipped by someguywhodidntsend'

Damn, way to respect the people who build our playground.