RRC Archives

hey just got back from tower (again) i filled in the crack and chipped some holds on the face. so it's super "safe" now. oh and i spraypainted tickmarks on it so you don't have to worry about a rainstorm ruining your day.

Throw a hex in the corner under the roof. It's bomber. You can place a #11 hex half way out the roof (if you have one of those). Probably don't need one though, as the move around the roof is pretty easy, as long as you don't undercling it like the idiot me used to. I like the idea of locking a big bro' in the short offwidth as rope drag is kind of weird there and can lift a piece out of it's placement.

Once I got tired of the poverty stricken nature of the climbing life and decided to get a job where, just maybe, I could make some money. My best friend and I went to work for his dad as long haul truckers. After about nine months I'd had enough of thousand mile days, and hung it up. Being "between opportunities", I hung around Lexington for a few days then went up to the gorge to blow out the cobwebs, I had my EBs with me, but was pathetically out of shape. I remember I couldn't even touch my toes. I laced on my shoes, bouldered up to the nice rest just above the roof, looked around a bit, and climbed back down. I was back in the game. Next stop Yosemite.

You can use a 4 a 5 and a 6 on all of those 8's except for Green grease. Its all hands. The last few feet of Dog Days is an OW so save something big. I still like going to Tower. Those routes just rock. Taking a newbie up Cavers is always fun.

This whole hex thing is funny. Why would you put anything in the corner?? Thats more drag. I'd put a #2 Camalot in about 6 feet below the roof, with a sling, then a big cam in the middle of the roof. Then theres a pocket that will take a small cam near the end of the roof.

Forget all that specialized gear unless you just want to be nostalgic.

Above the roof you can get a big piece if you want... or don't if you don't want.

512OW - Not to question your solution, sounds like it would work great, and it is what folks actually carry these days. But..., a hex in the corner with a nice long sling on it produces no rope drag, it's cheap, and it's bomber. The big hex half way out was also good. I guess my point was we could sew it up all the way through the roof even back in the day. The short bit of wide crack above the roof was where we just squeezed ourselves in the crack and resolved not to fall. Then we inched our way up until the next good piece. Tower Rock is a cool place.

laying back the wide part wasn't bad at all. plenty of feet on the face and the edge of the crack is monster. my $0.015

Don't get me wrong, Larry... I'm all about passive gear. My hexes have seen more use than most ever do these days...

However, if you're askin about gear on a 5.8, chances are, in this day and age, you hex placements are probably not quite up to speed.

I'd love to say "use the hex, it's a good learning experience", but I don't want it on my conscience...

wher's a yellow tri-cam when you need it??

Tower Rock is my favorite place to climb!!!!

Mrs Climber wrote:

Is there a need for any wide pieces on Dog Days...

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yes, i always keep a wide piece in the luv chimney

ZSpiddy