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Posted: Fri May 25, 2007 3:04 am
by 512OW
Toy wrote:
And beta isn't always right. Chalk does give you an idea of where to go and what sequence to use. Thats not a real onsight... just a "sport" onsight, which is actually a flash.
Doesn't the crack tell you where to go in trad climbing?
Sure. Just like the rock tells you where to go in any type of climbing. The crack isn't added by other climbers. It was there in the beginning...
What an idiotic statement....
Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 1:31 pm
by der uber
I don't try to flash something that I know will be a longer term project - in that case I'm starting off Goddard style.
If I usually do well on the grade and have flashed at that level or close to it before, I will gun for it.
Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 1:59 pm
by Meadows
512OW wrote:Toy wrote:
And beta isn't always right. Chalk does give you an idea of where to go and what sequence to use. Thats not a real onsight... just a "sport" onsight, which is actually a flash.
Doesn't the crack tell you where to go in trad climbing?
Sure. Just like the rock tells you where to go in any type of climbing. The crack isn't added by other climbers. It was there in the beginning...
What an idiotic statement....
Then you can't onsight in trad? Just curious - not being smart.
I had this friend who used every non chalked crimp next to well chalked jugs on classic routes like Fuzzy. Is that onsighting or just goofy? Actually, isn't hold discovery a frequent occurence in sport climbing? It often means a lower grade for the route though.
Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 2:10 pm
by Yasmeen
It's an FA! Ask him what he wants to name it and I'll put it in the guidebook right away.
Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 2:14 pm
by Yasmeen
After all...
piggie, in the tick spray thread, wrote:um, tomdarch, that is for when we have to take gumbies like you to the crag and wait for you to hangdog up our warmups...we tick those "crappy" holds on your proj because our proj is over the top of yours. those "crappy" holds are what we campus off of to pass the time.
Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 2:26 pm
by Meadows
Ha, I'm sure it should be something like, "Lead Astray" or "Work Offline?"
Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 2:57 pm
by pigsteak
after all, yasmeen....blfffffffttttttt
Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 3:42 pm
by Yasmeen
Pig, I can't help that I commit everything you write/say to memory so that I can use it against you later. It's kind of like breathing for me.
Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 4:46 pm
by Pru
mmmmm, bacon
Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 6:05 pm
by Toy
Sure. Just like the rock tells you where to go in any type of climbing. The crack isn't added by other climbers. It was there in the beginning...
Talk about redefining geology. What do you say about that Dr. Ho?
The big man had the foresight to create those cracks "in the beginning" huh? Was that one of the displays you saw at your fieldtrip to theCreationist Museum? I guess he knew there would be people out there that itchin' to scale vertical wall, tempt gravity, yet too weak to compete in the sport climbing arena.