rhunt, we've been thru this...any route with ANY chalk negates an onsight.
you "onsight" a route and use any chalked holds, your send is negated. that is why I have been bolting my own lines since moving here..it is the only pure climbing left at the Red. (btw, I wear a blindfold while drilling as to sanctify the onsight)
Lateralus wrote:most routes at the red have "good" tick/chalked holds and "bad" tick/chalked holds, these tend to even things out into a pure onsightedness state.
By the way, we call these Trick marks
"My Shit is Fucked Up." --Warren Zevon and Terry Kindred.
Isn't this why everyone climbs with small pressure washers? To make the rock virgin again? Wait a minute. Who bolted all those damn pockets which take gear so easily?
The theory of evolution is just as stupid as the theories of gravity and electromagnetism.
Lateralus wrote:most routes at the red have "good" tick/chalked holds and "bad" tick/chalked holds, these tend to even things out into a pure onsightedness state.
Yeah! Ideally, you should brush off your ticks when you clean the route. But most of all - don't tick crappy holds!
um, tomdarch, that is for when we have to take gumbies like you to the crag and wait for you to hangdog up our warmups...we tick those "crappy" holds on your proj because our proj is over the top of yours. those "crappy" holds are what we campus off of to pass the time.
i like to bring multicolored electrical tape and then tape the holds like in a gym. Marking ticks is also a good idea so you can see whose been bitten by the little cocksuckers. Fuckin ticks!
