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Thats easy, I've already looked into it for myself.....

Even though your doing the move down low your using more energy to do it probably because you can JUST do it. The harder move down low will use less energy and you will be less pumped at the end when you can do the low move smoother and with less power.

Yeah, as an Exercise Physiologist, Personal Trainer and student Physical Therapist, I have seen over training quite a few times. Usually a marker of overtraining is an increase in resting heart rate, a drop in performance (things that would have been easier for you become harder), the body is in a continuous catabolic state (breakdown), sleeplessness, etc. Some people dont recover from overtraining for years..depending on how bad it may be. Take some time off...still eat right and give your body the nutrients it needs to heal...for the harder you go into the overtraining state the longer it takes to come back. You see this a lot in the bodybuilding industry (from whence I came) anyway take care of yourself, allow some rest time...(you may need as much as two weeks depending on the severity) and then come back and try the route again. If you can't stand taking COMPLETE REST (which many of us athletes can't) try some different training modality...such as walking, or light cycling....but no climbing. Good Luck! If you need any other info I have got a ton on resources. PM me if you want some additional info. Hope this helps!!!

contact Tori Allen and ask if she will let you run that monkey on your chalkbag like she use to, I think I heard someone say its an excellent way to offset overtraining and at least you can blame failure on you know, that monkey on your back

Overtraining is fairly common among driven people. More, harder, faster is just counterproductive after a certain point.

kinda like continuing to hunch after you have "delivered" just because you're paying for it?

I miss OB Juan.... he/she'd like this thread!

dmw wrote:I miss OB Juan.... he/she'd like this thread!

Yeah what happen to him. Banned or just black balled.

I'd say rest up. Like rhunt said, it is hard to get power and endurance to peak simultaneously. But, it sounds like you were close to having them peak together. Maybe five days off, then a light day back at the cliff doing warm ups, and then try your rig the next day.
Getting old. In Crust We Trust!

the lurkist wrote:In Crust We Trust!

I love it!

Or, it could have just been a bad day...

That, or the day you were doing from the second bolt could've been a really good day?