Page 3 of 3
Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 10:01 pm
by ynot
so whats up with the white paint? Cool name for a route. the arete is really sweet but the rest of the line just doesnt climb as cool as it looks.
The move onto the slab is freaky but well protected.
Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 10:10 pm
by ynot
I been curious about that route since I found it. 9+ 10a 10b ?
Posted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:20 pm
by el toro
White paint? You must mean the hangers, which we painted grey to camouflage them. It didn't work well enough apparently.
10 years ago, the area above was becoming horribly trashed. People were cutting trees down left and right just to see them fall off the cliff, I guess. In recent years, the place has been starting to recover. I'm hoping that this chain won't inspire people to seek the area out.
This area does not need crowds of people stomping through it, thinking it is a sport crag. They will be gravely disappointed.
NOTHING TO SEE HERE!!
Posted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 11:23 pm
by ynot
It's pretty nice now. The view is choice. The tourons know about it though. I was headed there and ran into 4 stoners. To thier credit it would be an awesome spot to torch up. Theres just a little garbage around the base. Nothing like half moon. Me and D cleaned some. Did you see the copperheads in the belay alcove?
You didn't answer my rating question.
Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 8:08 pm
by el toro
I was hoping to dodge the rating question. I don't think I've ever climbed it in the daytime so my impression is probably slanted. I estimated 9+ in front of a guy that had toproped it. Of course he disagreed, saying it wasn't that hard. If you've climbed it, you don't need my opinion. If you haven't climbed it, I'd call it 9+ and warn you to put a long sling on the last bolt before the slab traverse at the top.
In past years, there were not any snakes in the alcove.
I picked up about 50 beercans at the base about 5 years ago to offset karmic guilt over having put the bolts in there.
Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:26 pm
by ynot
I thought it was 10a after leading it. D followed and said 9 ,so 9+ is good. I thought about chopping the route and leaving the anchors but I'm with everyone else. If you dont want to clip bolts then don't.Theres no reason to chop. The anchors are choice. 2 raps and you are down safely and ready to do any line there.
Getting down any other way would be sketchy.
Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:55 pm
by Zspider
I hear that when they went in on the 911 call, their camping area was littered with beer bottles and the tent and the campers smelled like a brewery.
ZSpiddy
Posted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 12:01 am
by ynot
Any Cheezits boxes laying around? Makes me wonder if it was the same kids I dropped in on. They had a tent between the pinnacle and the main wall.