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RRO wrote:you write about midgets, religion, art and cock wagging you get 183 pages of crap in 2 seconds. talk climbing, silence.


curving crack was kinda wierd for the grade. whats left of the beanling kicked my ass hard.

pre 1995 who do you think sandbagged the most ?

Sorry Matthew, but the only thing I climbed latley is Patty, and she's 5.14d for sure

TTT is a 12? We warm up on it to run laps on Ro....wuss.

Hmm....

I totally disagree about Muscle Shoals. I think its right on. Footless?? Its all feet. Thats where the problem lies..... its a lower body route.

Whats Left of the Beeneling is right on as well. No question. The OW part is only about 5.7 or 8.

The Beeneling might be a little sandbagged.

Most trad routes in the Red are right on or have a history of being (often severely) overgraded.... like Burden of Dreams, Synchronicity, Andromeda Strain, Negative Energy...


The Specimen might feel like the most sandbagged route in the Red to alot of people.....

As one of the only people who has been on it, how do you feel about "Here Comes Batman"?

I think the grade is probably right. I blew that little pocket out, so if that was relied on, it might feel harder, but upside down armbars and shoulder scums worked just as well.

Its unfortunate that the top of that thing is such soft rock. The moves through the sandy part are ultra cool.

There certainly are sandbags out there. Overall though I believe routes that were put up in the 80's and 90's are generally harder than the routes being put up today of the same grade.

tcu wrote:There certainly are sandbags out there. Overall though I believe routes that were put up in the 80's and 90's are generally harder than the routes being put up today of the same grade.

I disagree with that as well. I think climbing styles have changed...and people are looking at different types of routes.

Some routes just climb "old school". They're gonna feel harder to a gym climber than Ro Shampo or something similiar.....

and i suspect Ro would have felt insane to a trad climber in the 70s. Sustained moves over such a steep angle was not exactly normal climbing then.

plus, protecting Ro with hexes might be a bit problematic down low.

gunslnga wrote:

RRO wrote:you write about midgets, religion, art and cock wagging you get 183 pages of crap in 2 seconds. talk climbing, silence.


curving crack was kinda wierd for the grade. whats left of the beanling kicked my ass hard.

pre 1995 who do you think sandbagged the most ?

Sorry Matthew, but the only thing I climbed latley is Patty, and she's 5.14d for sure

Keep practicing and it will get easier..