RRC Archives

i use to rappel from helicopters in the military carrying about 30 lbs in a pack and a rifle. our system was only a single biner, and the rotor wash was crazy. but i never felt like i needed a "back-up". i just simply paid attention to what i was doing.

I voted yes but I'm guilty of not backing up 100% of the time... on short, easy warm up routes I don't always spend the time to rig the friction knot.

I always back up my rappel mostly because I climb alone I use the autoblock it is fast and easy to rig I have a petzel shunt that I use for tope rope self belay but I dont think I would dish out the cash for it only for rapelling when the autoblock works just as good.

On a side note, I was just thinking about it, and I can't think I've anybody I've known, or directly heard of who had a rapelling accident caused by not having a backup. But i have heard of, or even known 3-4 people who have rapped off the end of their rope. I think tying the ends together on a mult-pitch rapell is probably more important than just about anything else when it comes to rapelling (other than making sure you're really connected before leaning back).

The most imprtant thing in rapping is making sure the anchor is solid. All that rigging won't do any good when that little tree falls off the cliff with you attatched.

autoblock backup every single time. It takes 5 seconds and also makes it easier to clean gear

I recently purchased a new rope. My first rope undre 10mm, and I think I'm going to start using a backup more often. I always felt safe on 10.2-10.5's without a backup, but a new 9.5 just doesn't have much friction.

I use an autoblock as a backup almost all of the time....

I was rapping once and somehow my foot slipped and I freaking lost my balance. The first thing I instinctively did was throw my hands out to catch my fall. Thank goodness it was a long route and a 10.5 rope and I was still almost at the top. Those three factors saved my ass. The weight of the rope and it's thickness was enough to stop me from going anywhere.
The really stupid thing about it was there were threee people standing at the bottom of the climb and I didn't ask any of them to give me a firemans. Now, I ask to do that everytime I can.

I remember reading a story about a man who was repelling a route and cleaning his gear on the way down. He had to swing over pretty far to reach some of the gear so he asked for a fireman's belay.

When the gear pulled and he swung back out, there was too much extra slack in the rope and before his partner could take the slack out he had hit the ground. I think it may have been in one of the climbing accident in North American books.