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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 1:54 am
by OB Juan
EDIT: I just read all of your links. I stand by all of my previous statements. Core strength training is the latest fad. Those muscles will be hit by many other workouts, and anything that improves overall strength and flexibility will reduce the occurance of injury, but still can't come close to surpassing the kind of protection one gets from a good warmup, and some stretching.[/quote]

Your making a fool of yourself on this topic. The most recent scientific research supports my claim that stretching prior to a workout not only fails to benefit overall flexibility but can actually place the athlete at greater risk for injury under strain. Further I don't recall ever claiming that someone shouldn't warm up, they in fact should, though there is debate in the athletic community about it. Unfortunatly all the warming up in the world cannot compensate for a torso that is unable to offset the force of an overloaded muscle in the limb. Climbers make dynamic moves all the time, moves that place limb muscles under extreme strain and the ability of the torso to off load a percentage of that strain is the result of proper training of the entire body including core training not the residual effect of another exercise.

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 2:52 am
by flyinglow
OB Juan wrote:Your opinion on this is about as valuable as your ass. I've met tons of jocks who think they know more than they're coaches,

prevelant

Well your wrong

I'm just guessing here but I'll bet your are not.

I'm a high school dropout, and i know the difference between there, their and they're. Also you, you're, your... aparently they didn't teach english at your college. Some expert.

If you're going to belittle people it'll come off better if you don't make yourself look like an idiot in the process.

And, OB juan, you're definitley conceited, and probably an idiot to boot.

Generally, I don't give a shit about people's spelling and grammar on the internet, but if you're gonna try to come off as an expert you ought to at least know how to type and spell.
[/flame]

Out of curiosity, just how would lack of core strength increase the chances of a finger tendon injury? Wouldn't a lack of core strength cause a person *not* to be able to apply more power to their fingers?

Obviously proper conditioning is helpful to avoid injury, but core strength isn't the only thing going on while climbing.

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 3:29 am
by Paul3eb
check it out! this is core strength in action!

http://www.tubgirl.com

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 11:16 am
by OB Juan
"I'm a high school dropout, and i know the difference between there, their and they're. Also you, you're, your... aparently they didn't teach english at your college. Some expert."

Flyinglow, I'm not writitng a research paper here, I typing a quick message on this board. You should consider researching the topic being discussed. Believe it or not I actually have more important things to do and this is simply recreational conversation though I have attempted to impart some knowledgeable training info for the benefit of anyone who wishes to use it. If you are to smart to learn something from it then thats your problem.

Let's face it, I put my credentials out here in view of the readership as did you.

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 1:37 pm
by ReachHigh
Paul3eb wrote:check it out! this is core strength in action!

http://www.tubgirl.com

please my eyes hurt, hasn't ho spoke enought of her already.

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 2:28 pm
by gbarnett
OB Juan wrote:Core weakness is in 'fact' (That statement is scientifically factual and well known among the medical and physical fitness communities) the single most culprit involved in injuries of the extremities of the human body.
The links posted didn't seem willing to make such claims. From http://houstonultimate.org/Articles/Cor ... ioning.pdf:
While improved speed and strength are the most appreciable benefits of core conditioning, reducing the risk of injury is another benefit of strengthening the muscles that provide balance and stability to your legs and arms.
That statement sounds pretty reasonable to me.

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 2:51 pm
by Meadows
flyinglow wrote:
I'm a high school dropout, and i know the difference between there, their and they're. Also you, you're, your... aparently they didn't teach english at your college. Some expert.
I'm tired of seeing comments like these. I do it when I want to play the smart-arse (and in doing so, it is all in jest or to inform others), but in no way does writing "your" in place of "you're" or "their" in place of "they're" undermine the intelligence or constructive thoughts of a person.

Thoughts in a brain fire off way faster than the fingers can ever type. Simple mistakes like that happen, especially in keyboarding. To discredit someone on common mistakes is a sign of your own ignorance.

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 2:59 pm
by Wes
I thought this was intresting...

http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20060705/ap_ ... pl_wurdz_1

And as for the core thing: core is good. So is warming up. Can't you do both?

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 3:13 pm
by dmw
Yeah. I saw that article yesterday..... I think while learning to spell phonetically probably makes more sense, I do also agree with the author that it would be hard on children who are learning as we speak to switch to a new system of spelling. As I was reading, there were certain words that I struggled with- it took me a minute to figure out what the hell "hi-proefile" and "nuezpaeper" were, which concretes the fact that we have in fact used rote-learning skills to master the English language. I had to stop and sound the word out to recognize it. Have you ever seen the forward on yuor eaiml taht cnhages the pcemlatnet of the ltetrs in wdors but is slitl radelbale? It is pttrey cool!

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 4:48 pm
by flyinglow
I'm tired of so called experts who are unwilling to listen to the real world experiences of those they are supposed to help because they are educated and supposedly know better. Just because you have a degree doesn't mean that you are any good at what you do.
As far as proofreading your posts, c'mon, what's it take? 30 seconds to make sure
your post makes sense?

It doesn't seem that OB Juan is particularly interested in a conversation anyway, starting just a couple posts in, he was attacking someone (gbarnett) who raised an interesting counterpoint as opposed to discussing it in a civil manner. I think both sides have merit, but my impression of ob juan's demeanor prevents me from even wanting to hear his side. Since i don't personally know any of those involved, I'm much more likely to agree with someone i don't already dislike because of their lack of grammar and politeness

OB Juan, are you planning on posting any data on injury rates and core strength? Or are you just going to post up other peoples workouts without any information to back up what you're saying? You've stated several times that lack of core strength is a major cause of climbing injuries, but offer no evidence to back up your position other than your *assertion* that it's a well known scientific fact.

From the first posted article: "Core conditioning has gradually been receiving more attention in the past few years."
It doesn't make nearly the assertions that you have.


I'm not going to dedicate a bunch of time into a workout that some jerk says i should do with little evidence to back up his position. I understand it's not a research paper, but some credibility would be nice.
If you're going to make bold claims you should be prepared to back them up when people ask questions and raise legitimate points.