Bolt jobs

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 6:45 pm

what is standard fair..bolting cracks or mixed routes?

you know why people don't climb mixed routes here? because 90% of the folks don't own trad gear, or they come to clip bolts. trad is too time consuming for many....mixed climbing is one oxymoron that is in need of a pigsteak corollary...

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:14 pm

piggy, not every climber has the right to climb every route... mixed routes are cool and should not be sanitized for the chuffers.

Post by **allah** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:18 pm

im a chuffer and i b olted a crack at purgatory HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:19 pm

you did not! Did you?

Post by **Wes** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:20 pm

I don't like mixed routes all that much. Unless it is just adding a bolt or two (maybe three if it is really long) to what would otherwise be an r or x rated trad route, . Placing and falling on gear isn't rocket science or some kinda voodoo. If it is going to be at least 50% bolted, then just go ahead and add the rest of the bolts. That is just what I think, and I have climbed some amazing mixed lines that are great as they are. Over all, and at the red, just add some bolts. Not like it is adventure climbing or anything like that, and probably at least half of the accepted "sport" lines would go as r rated or better gear routes.

Post by **RRO** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:20 pm

i know, BITCH ! you know good and well fat mans misery was going to be an ultra classic. you couldnt stand someone else stealing your purgatory thunder. youl get whats coming soon.

Post by **allah** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:26 pm

Oh shit I forgot aboubt that route. I was talking about "the castle has fallen"

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:28 pm

you bolted a 5.4 crack?? Kenny, I'm gonna have to hurt you if that is true

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:30 pm

allah has bolted two cracks now...sandy, are you listening?

i'm with wes on this one....many of the face climbs could go as sporty trad lines if the right person sent them...it is a matter if a sport wienie like myself or some hard core trad babe gets to it first....

Post by **allah** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:33 pm

no no no my bolts cros over the start of that route thats all, i forgot that it was a route when i bolted it mainly cause i had that line in my head for a long time and when i got a drill to use i put it in not thinking.