RRC Archives

How does something that is rarely climbed become a classic? If the routes were classics then they would probably be climbed often.

Or maybe some of them could be newer routes that might someday become popular. "Slide" might be a good example of this case.

Perhaps walls with a longer than usual approach could have some great routes that are not climbed as frequently as areas with easier access. In this case "Toxic Avenger" comes to mind.

Also, routes that were once popular, but are now closed would qualify as rarely climbed classics. For example, "Hurricane Amy", "Thirsting Skull", or "Jac Mac".

Others that probably don't see as much traffic as they should: "Camp", "Store", "Heard it on NPR", "Delusions of Grandeur", "Eye of the Needle", "Fear of Common Sense", "Apotheosis Denied", "There Goes the Neighborhood", "Dave the Dude", "Earthsurfer", "The Gift", "Go Easy Billy Clyde!", "Immaculate Deception", "Way Up Yonder", etc. etc.

Alot of these routes are not next to any other decent routes or next to routes of similar grade or style. There are plenty piles that get climbed all the time just becuase the are next to some cool routes. For example, if There goes the Neighborhood was at the ten wall at roadside it would be climbed all the time, but since its next to easier trad routes it doesn't get climbed. Climbers, especially at the Red, are lazy. Including my self.

I was thinking about getting on Too Many Puppies next week but it's around my limit. How does it go for a 12a? Pump or move crux? etc. I saw that list in Ray's guide about "soft" 12a's but when I saw BMT on it, I kind of had to wonder about it's accuracy. Sorry SCIN.

Hang on at the top.

i thought BMT was "the hardest 12a at the Red" in Ray's guide....

I think it's listed in the list of climbs that are soft for the grade. That's why it seemed odd to me.

marathonmedic wrote:I think it's listed in the list of climbs that are soft for the grade. That's why it seemed odd to me.

I think your confusing what that list is. If I remember right its the list of most popular 12's, possibly. I think its a list of climbs to get on if your trying to bump up to the 5.12 level, i.e. the most popular ones. I'm not sure many people would try to claim that BMT is a soft 12a.

i think it is on there as a joke.

That was my first thought, too. Then I wondered if it came from the poll of most popular 12a's.

BMT isn't harder then many of the other routes of that grade, as long as you can rest and recover on good holds. Chainsaw is way harder.

Too many puppies is steller - mostly bouldery, with good rests, and a killer "exit" move past the last bolt.

All things concidered needs to be on this list as well. As good as any of the routes on the 12 wall at Millitary, yet it sees a fraction of the traffic.

Wes