This year's project route

Post by **kek-san** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 2:28 pm

Don't remeber exactly, but I don't remember the bottom being hard. But you might be right. It's been awhile. Sounds like I need to go back!

Post by **Ascentionist** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 2:31 pm

Yellow Brick Road was my first 11. I had only redpointed two .10s. Aquaduck was my second. Its a boulder problem to 5.8 climbing.

Bandoleer is good, Fuzzy is good, I thought Trust in Jesus was a good .11. The old .10s at Torrent are good (around to the right).

Lollipop Kids is a boulder problem to 5.8 or 5.9 climbing as well.

Post by **dah-le** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:14 pm

My 1st 11 clean send was Fuzzy...it was a bit of a bane of my existence for many years (I'm shorter @ 5'6 so its a bit more 'challenging' for me).

I'd recommend against Maypop unless your style is thin balancy stuff. Overhung stuff, the pointers to Whipstocking are good (sure wish I led that one...didn't for time constraints) Also personally liked Aquaduct...suits my style tho, boulder move down low & jug hauling up above. But I think again having smaller hands makes a difference, people who don't like it can't quite sink into the pocket so makes it harder for 'em.

Been on some of the ones at Torrent as well...ready to get back to those...& heard good things abt the Playground (put plug for the PMRP here)
-Dale

Post by **mcrib** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:40 pm

Maypop doesn't climb well and has lost a signifigent number of holds over the years. Just so you know.

Post by **rhunt** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:46 pm

mcrib wrote:Maypop doesn't climb well and has lost a signifigent number of holds over the years. Just so you know.

and the last time I looked it is missing one hanger at the anchor.

oh and it's a PILE...

Post by **Wes** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:00 pm

Up yonder, perfect steep climbing. Just don't blow the third clip, and try to catch it when it isn't all slimy.

Post by **kek-san** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:30 pm

Sorry to toss out Maypop. Sounds like it has degraded since I was on it (like early 2000). I just remember it as a fun route. Creep Show is a hoot but at 10d doesn't cut the criterion. Muir Vally has a few 11's that might be a good fit. Indie Wall and Great Wall both have progressive 10's and a few 11's.

Post by **meetVA** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:40 pm

I don't know abou the anchors but last time I was on Maypop I had a blast! I hear you either love it or hate it.

Post by **dah-le** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 6:03 am

Maypop anchor last fall (Tgiving?) only had one bolt....caused my partner to continue on to finish on Mr. Bungle. But this may be old info.

Post by **J-Rock** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 2:02 pm

Wes wrote:Up yonder, perfect steep climbing. Just don't blow the third clip, and try to catch it when it isn't all slimy.

That reminds me Wes, the first pitch of "Up Yonder" was my first 5.11. It was my 2nd time climbing and my buddy lied to me and told me that it was a 5.7. I didn't know any better at the time. We had just climbed "C# or B Flat" so I thought the holds on "Up Yonder" were much bigger then those little flat edges and crimps on the slab. Anyway, I got to the 3rd clip and I couldn't get the rope into the biner. I kept trying over and over and then I made the classic beginner's mistake of calling for more slack. Just then I popped off and my belayer caught me 3 feet off of the ground. Later we realized that his biner was broken and it was stuck shut. I should have just used another quickdraw, but I was too much of a gumby at the time to think of trying that...