Must do/Must avoid up to 5.10a for new lead climber

Post by **steep4me** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 4:11 pm

Avoid all of the "poopie" climbs at Torrent.

What's wrong with Sunshine and Moonbeam for a 5.10a cllimber?

Also--Wadcutter is a fun 5.9

Post by **tunedvwgti** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 11:23 pm

I climbed Dynabolt Gold (10a) after checking it out while climbing Glory & Consequence5.7 and Limonite5.8 - Dynabolt was really easy for me for a 10a. I couldn't belive it. Really huge holds the whole way up, loads of fun and a HUGE confidence builder/booster - DO IT!!!

Post by **Josephine** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 6:40 am

it's only a confidence booster until you think "i can climb 10a sunshine will be no problem - it's only a 9"

beware of using any one climb/crag as a benchmark for the "i am a 5.whatever climber" some areas are softer/harder than others.

Post by **meetVA** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 10:12 am

KD wrote:jump for joy and faddah at roadside

those are scary, sketchy and potentially dangerous leads.

Post by KD » Sat Sep 22, 2007 11:00 am

meetVA wrote:
KD wrote:jump for joy and faddah at roadside
those are scary, sketchy and potentially dangerous leads.

Why you say that? I'm a sketch sometimes and haven't felt too bad leading them. Guess it jus depends.

Post by **tunedvwgti** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 11:47 am

Yeah, I know a 5.10 that is crimpy would be really hard for me... Dynabolt just featured my strengths personally....Hopping on 5.10's just isn't as intimidating anymore after Dynabolt, and they will make me a more rounded climber, trying to progress...

Post by **Crankmas** » Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:37 am

try loosen up