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Most gyms have a business model where the major portion of the income comes from groups like b-day parties, boy scouts, youth groups, etc., and the regular customers are icing on the cake. A gym that catered only to groups would work well, but a bouldering-only gym might be tough. The question is, how many members could such a gym attract? The next question is, can you find a pretty low rent building that is more or less central to the population? If this equation will work:
members * $45 = rent * 2
...then I'd build a gym.

Don't forget insurance costs.

kato - I think folks are willing to build one for you if you want to open a CT 2...

Believe me, I've thought about it. Major hurdle for me= if an employee doesn't show up to work, or if emergency maintenance is required, I need to be able to get there quickly. Or else have a rock-steady reliable manager, which is hard to come by for a low budget business. An idea that has occurred to me is to build the gym and then immediately sell it to someone local.

kato wrote:Or else have a rock-steady reliable manager, which is hard to come by for a low budget business.

just keep in mind it costs a whole lot less to live in Lexington than it does to live in Cincy...

I bet if you built it...they would co-op it...

anyone know of a building with minimum 32 foot clearance, min. 4,000 sq. foot floor space, maximum $3,500 monthly rent that is open, plus decent location? you find it, I'll build it.

I think a bouldering gym would fly. Upfront costs are low. Staffing could be minimal (if at all).
Basically, everyone involved in the discussions last year all recognized the same truth- a coop in the strict definition of the idea was going to be problematic. An absolute democracy where everyone has a say is difficult to run.
If one person (Mr. Pig) takes the risk with the building and responsibility of signing for the lease, all the costs would be covered up front by a core group who so desparately want a gym (the same 30 odd folks who wanted one last year).
So, financial risk is minimal. With one guy/gal at the helm they can run it and if the thing makes a profit, pocket i.e. run it like a business.
One caveat I would add is run it like a business that serves a select clientelle. If the owner vets the members, he/she could probably not have any staff, but rely on trusted members to be responsible for turning off the lights and locking the door. Everyone is a key holder.
The liability is all controlled by the owner carefully screening who he\she feels comfortable with having the responsibility. No pissing contests about who becomes a member b/c only the owner has say so.
I think it would work.

pigsteak wrote:anyone know of a building with minimum 32 foot clearance, min. 4,000 sq. foot floor space, maximum $3,500 monthly rent that is open, plus decent location? you find it, I'll build it.

That's the biggest problem. Very little space of this type. It's frustrating.

pigsteak wrote:anyone know of a building with minimum 32 foot clearance, min. 4,000 sq. foot floor space, maximum $3,500 monthly rent that is open, plus decent location? you find it, I'll build it.

why those specs? are you going for a commercial, open to joe schmoe, public roped gym?

for awesome co-op style bouldering (in that you're training for outdoors, it's not an end unto itself) you could easily do well with ~14' ceilings and 1500 sq ft.

Well, I hate to break it to you guys, but we are climbers, not business people. Those of us do happen to be both generally try not to let the two sides intertwine because in essence, they represent exact opposite ideologies. The words " Rock Climbing" represent fun, friends, good times, social functions, relaxations, etc, etc. Just the word "Business" represents work, stress, and all the things we go climbing to get away from. It seems to me that the most successful climibing gyms (obviously with some exceptions) are run by business people, not climbers. Hence, the following:

IN MY OPINION, The only kind of "gym" that will thrive in the Lexington area is a privately owned home gym. Ray and Michelle realized this, opted out of the co-op and built their own using their own resources. This was what we will call a "GOOD IDEA". They are now the owners and "Bosses" of their gym. They have the final say in anything and everything related to their gym, including who climbs, who can set probs, etc, etc. Because of this, their gym works. Because it is TWO people making decisions, not 30, they are able to arrive at a consensus on what "is" and what "ain't" gonna happen at this gym much more easily and quickly than would 30 people with 30 differing opinions.

In my opinion, the co-op is what we will refer to as a "Bad Idea". In essence it's a lot like herding cats and I think it could damage more friendships than one might think.

This is just my .02 based on my observations of the climbing community. It is definitely not a slam on anyone as I consider everyone here a friend. I am VERY glad that Ray and Michelle's gym turned out so well and I hope others can draw inspiration from this. I wish them the best of luck with it and who knows, this may be the seeds of a franchise!

p.s. - the views expressed herein are not necessarily the opinions of the author, just some insane, pre-breakfast rants. He reserves the right to change his mind after he wakes up and eats breakfast. Also, he wants to remind everyone, there is no offense intended in anything said. Thanks.

Mj