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Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2005 3:26 pm
by stix
I understand there is certain amount of ego involved in these things, but at least you are willing to open it up in a reasonable amount of time with the understanding that the route will always be there for you to climb. That's not the case with all developers.
Re: Open project at the gallery...
Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 1:33 am
by Wes
This route has been done, congrats to Ben Cassel. He and Blake say it is cool without another bolt, as long as you have a good belay. If more people get on it, and feel another bolt is a good idea, I will add one.
Check it out, very fun route on super pretty rock.
Wes wrote:Hey, I bolted a line at the gallery that might be a bit to hard (5.13ish ??)for me to do in the near future, so I am going to open it up. However, it needs another bolt and it is NOT SAFE at this point. There is a ground fall potential from kinda high up if you blow a clip. So, I plan on adding another bolt, but not sure when I will be able to get out there. If you are intrested in working / sending the route, PM me and I will give you the beta on where the bolt needs to be. It also still needs some cleaning. It is a super pretty route, with cool moves, and I would hate for people to miss out on it this year because of my lazy ass. There is a biner with a red tag on the first bolt, please leave that on until the bolt job is fixed. It is easy to rig a TR to check it out, as it shares the anchors with Break the scene, and super cool 11d/12a...
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1536
Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 6:22 pm
by captain static
Great job Ben and thanks Wes for bolting the line and opening it up. FYI some 40 new routes have been done on the PMRP during 2005 but wat is somewhat suprising is that about half of them are trad routes:
http://www.rrgcc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.p ... 86899c6a1e
Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 6:36 pm
by SCIN
I think Kenny was joking when he said that.
Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 6:46 pm
by allah
It was a half joke, it wouldnt suprise me if the thing dosent see an ascent for the next 5 to 10 years although all the moves have been done. I wish that I some of the top named climbers would come try it, I tried talking Ethan and Andy to try it when they were around but niether of them showed much interest cause the holds looked to small and looked to hard.
But there are a few new routes at purgatory so when it warms up people should check those out as well
Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 6:48 pm
by SCIN
But how can it be one of the hardest climbs in the east if it hasn't been done yet? I could go bolt a completely blank wall and call it the hardest climb in the east if that's the case.
Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 6:54 pm
by allah
LOL ok in that case I will say it has the potential to be the hardest route in the east. "this is the 'realization ' of the states" LOL
Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:01 pm
by Spragwa
Yeah, there was also skeletor that Hugh bolted. It was never done. It's closed now too.
Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:41 pm
by mcrib
Dave Hume said that all the holds were upsidedown on skeletor.
Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 12:03 am
by Spragwa
Drat mother nature and her sick sense of humor.